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I am having that display problem with the factory CD unit. I pulled it and resoldered a few connections. Checked the ground, and still no display. Everything else works fine, just can't tell how late I am to work anymore in the mornings. Does anyone have anymore suggestions on what to do to fix this. " I really want the satisfaction of saying,"There ain't Nothing I can't fix". But that seems to be slippin away.
Does the display have a backlight? That could be burned out. Other than that, the only thing I could think of would be either display or controller failed.
No, I do not believe that the unit has a back light. It is the one that everyone is having problems with the solder coming loose on the back of the display board. There are serveral other threads on it, but the outcome is all the same, buy a new one.
Were the connections you re-soldered bad? By bad I mean non-conductive or cold joint (looks pasty or grainy). I don't want to insult your intelligience so I will just ask. How much soldering experience do you have? I am a Miniature Electronic's Repair Technician for the Navy so if you need soldering advice or need to know what to look for let me know.
Russell
1968 F250 LWB 300-6
FORD=First on Race Day
MOPAR=Mostly Old Parts and Rust
I have very little soldering experience, I do not believe it was a cold joint.(Is a cold joint a bare wire connection?) I quess you could say a hot joint, it was directly on the motherboard were a plug was coming through from the other side. The solder was missing from this connection. Another tech told me were to look for the loose points on the ends of a long connection row, that powers the display.
I resoldered it and no luck. I checked the ground, and it was fine.
Still no display. If the truck sits for a few days the display will come back on and last for a couple restarts or around 1-3 hours. I take criticism well, so lay it on me if you have any suggestions.
First off a cold solder joint is term used to describe a solder joint that is grainy and dull. It is not a very strong solder joint and normally breaks over time. I good solder joint will remain bright and shiny with a mirror like finish, along with some other things too. Check with an ohmmeter to ensure that your solder didn't flow from one spot onto another that it isn't supposed to be on. In other words, if they are close together check to make sure they are not shorted together. Most solder jobs are 90% prep and 10% soldering. Clean the whole area with alcohol (isopropol not beer! LOL) using a stiff brush (a small paint brush with the bristles cut to about 1/4 inch in length will work great) When you think it is clean enough clean it again and then again. Drop 1 or 2 drops of soldering flux on the area to be soldered. Set your iron on the part to be soldered and touch it lightly with the solder to create a solder bridge. Then after about five seconds feed the solder into the joint at the base of the soldering iron. Not too much as it will create problems later. Lift the iron straight out and wait about 30 seconds. Clean with alcohol and it should be bright and shiny.
Good luck,
Russell
1968 F250 LWB 300-6
FORD=First on Race Day
MOPAR=Mostly Old Parts and Rust
I had the same problem with my 98 explorer. The problem is internal to the radio. I am a techinician by profession. After acquiring the diagrams I found that the Power Supply and Oscilator module gets very hot to a point the circuit board become discolored. I feel it could be poor thermal management due to a poor design. I took mine apart and found some poor solder joints as a result of the internal heat. After resoldering the joints the radio display has worked fine for a year. A gentlemen at Omicron Electronics in Carrollton Texas help me some with drawings. If you are not a competent technician this will cost bucks to resolve. Good Luck!
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