van turbo upgrades???
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,048
Likes: 16
van turbo upgrades???
well im getting a van turbo in probably the next week, to week and a half(shipping). and i was wondering, besides the adapter for the exhaust, and the non-ebpv pedistal is there anything else that i should do to the turbo before i put it in the truck? is there any need for a wicked wheel?
also im gonna order the non-ebpv pedistal from ITP, do i need to get the locking bolts for the turbo aswell? and where can i get some new o-rings from?
thanks, Austin
also im gonna order the non-ebpv pedistal from ITP, do i need to get the locking bolts for the turbo aswell? and where can i get some new o-rings from?
thanks, Austin
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 5,584
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From: Millbrook Alabama
The 13mm bolts you remove from the old turbo will be fine for the new one. Tell Dennis at ITP that you need new orings (top and bottom) and he will send them to you. If you are not adding an ATS housing, then add a WW. Dont do both unless you REALLY like turbo whine (been there, tried that, had to go back to a stock wheel with the ATS housing) While you have the trubo and pedistal off, it would be a great time to do up-pipe donuts, or get a set of bellowed up pipes.(trust me, your chest and neck will hurt so bad from changing the turbo and pedistal that you will not want to remove it again to do the up-pipes when the leaks occur in a few weeks.) If you want to rebuid the van turbo before installation check out my write up on guzzles page.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,048
Likes: 16
thanks Brandon for the info, i guess i need to add wicked wheel to the list of stuff to buy, as i dont have the $$ for an ATS housing. luckily im i dont have to worry about rebuilding the turbo as it was done about 20k miles ago.
a while ago i read somewhere that the exhaust donuts for some brand of gasser would also fit our up pipes, and that they could be had at any local auto store. Does anybody know what those donuts fit originally?
also brandon the best part is that i get to use a padded topside creeper to do this job.
thanks, Austin
a while ago i read somewhere that the exhaust donuts for some brand of gasser would also fit our up pipes, and that they could be had at any local auto store. Does anybody know what those donuts fit originally?
also brandon the best part is that i get to use a padded topside creeper to do this job.
thanks, Austin
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 7,413
Likes: 1
From: Columbia, MO
Austin, I would try running the turbo without the WW first. The WW will decrease air flow and you may not need it. The whole point of the WW is to get rid of surge, which may not be a problem.
Quick lesson: surge is caused basically due to the compressor wheel trying to force more air into the engine than what it can take. The WW works to get rid of surge because it flows less air. Less air trying to be forced in = no surge. When you go with a larger exhaust housing, or in this case a van turbo (intake side of the van and truck turbo's are the same), the turbo is more efficient than the stock turbo setup. This efficiency means the turbo can move more air at less boost, due to the decrease in exhaust backpressure before the turbo. Since the engine can now take more air because of the more efficient turbo, the compressor wheel is not trying to force air that has no where to go, and surge goes away.
So, I just hate to see you spend money if it's not necessary, especially if there is the potential for less air flow. Also, a user on TDS several years ago tried every combo of the van turbo with the ATS, WW, stock housing, and stock wheel. He found the best performance came from a stock wheel and ATS housing.
As you already stated, that turbo won't need to be rebuilt.
Quick lesson: surge is caused basically due to the compressor wheel trying to force more air into the engine than what it can take. The WW works to get rid of surge because it flows less air. Less air trying to be forced in = no surge. When you go with a larger exhaust housing, or in this case a van turbo (intake side of the van and truck turbo's are the same), the turbo is more efficient than the stock turbo setup. This efficiency means the turbo can move more air at less boost, due to the decrease in exhaust backpressure before the turbo. Since the engine can now take more air because of the more efficient turbo, the compressor wheel is not trying to force air that has no where to go, and surge goes away.
So, I just hate to see you spend money if it's not necessary, especially if there is the potential for less air flow. Also, a user on TDS several years ago tried every combo of the van turbo with the ATS, WW, stock housing, and stock wheel. He found the best performance came from a stock wheel and ATS housing.
As you already stated, that turbo won't need to be rebuilt.
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,225
Likes: 1
From: Farmington, Minnesota
Austin, I would try running the turbo without the WW first. The WW will decrease air flow and you may not need it. The whole point of the WW is to get rid of surge, which may not be a problem.
Quick lesson: surge is caused basically due to the compressor wheel trying to force more air into the engine than what it can take. The WW works to get rid of surge because it flows less air. Less air trying to be forced in = no surge. When you go with a larger exhaust housing, or in this case a van turbo (intake side of the van and truck turbo's are the same), the turbo is more efficient than the stock turbo setup. This efficiency means the turbo can move more air at less boost, due to the decrease in exhaust backpressure before the turbo. Since the engine can now take more air because of the more efficient turbo, the compressor wheel is not trying to force air that has no where to go, and surge goes away.
That's cause it came off your engine
I would agree there is no need for the ww.........................
So, I just hate to see you spend money if it's not necessary, especially if there is the potential for less air flow. Also, a user on TDS several years ago tried every combo of the van turbo with the ATS, WW, stock housing, and stock wheel. He found the best performance came from a stock wheel and ATS housing.
As you already stated, that turbo won't need to be rebuilt.
Quick lesson: surge is caused basically due to the compressor wheel trying to force more air into the engine than what it can take. The WW works to get rid of surge because it flows less air. Less air trying to be forced in = no surge. When you go with a larger exhaust housing, or in this case a van turbo (intake side of the van and truck turbo's are the same), the turbo is more efficient than the stock turbo setup. This efficiency means the turbo can move more air at less boost, due to the decrease in exhaust backpressure before the turbo. Since the engine can now take more air because of the more efficient turbo, the compressor wheel is not trying to force air that has no where to go, and surge goes away.
That's cause it came off your engine
I would agree there is no need for the ww.........................So, I just hate to see you spend money if it's not necessary, especially if there is the potential for less air flow. Also, a user on TDS several years ago tried every combo of the van turbo with the ATS, WW, stock housing, and stock wheel. He found the best performance came from a stock wheel and ATS housing.
As you already stated, that turbo won't need to be rebuilt.
> I agree that there is no need for the WWEdit: That was a strange double post
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 9,714
Likes: 2
From: White Mnt's,New Hampshire
i have asked this question with no answer...the set i been told to use is the
exhaust donuts for Small Block Chevy V8 (Napa) F17250
i just picked up a set for 5 bucks...Ford wants 20 for there's..no time to change mine this weekend..i will be doing it next weekend...ill let you know how they fit.....but they do look very close in size...
exhaust donuts for Small Block Chevy V8 (Napa) F17250
i just picked up a set for 5 bucks...Ford wants 20 for there's..no time to change mine this weekend..i will be doing it next weekend...ill let you know how they fit.....but they do look very close in size...
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Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,754
Likes: 1
From: Indianapolis
Good luck with removing your y-pipe to get to the donuts- I gave up after the easiest bolt stopped turning 1/4" out. The next time I goof around with that damn exhaust is when I do my early to late conversion and drop in the bellowed up-pipes.....
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 7,413
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From: Columbia, MO
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,048
Likes: 16
thanks everybody for the information. jeremy sorry i didnt call i didnt want to bug ya. and ron thanks for that part number. i would greatly appreciate it if you could PM me when you do those donuts, and let me know how they work for ya.
thanks, Austin
thanks, Austin
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 9,714
Likes: 2
From: White Mnt's,New Hampshire
i sure will..id feel better to here from some one that has done this before i try..but i will let ya know..