Took two weeks off, got my cab repairs close to done, frame sandblasted, and the frame itself painted - still need to do the leafs, but going to pull them off. Did find the rear brakes SHOT, but didn't think they would be, because the fronts are brand new. Took the drum off, and the lining fell out! Oh well, better two than four!

Enjoy the pics...the Chassis Saver paint is nice stuff, but MAN it's a pain to paint with! DON'T get any on you!! And if you do, wipe it off RIGHT NOW! And it starts out, like thick paint, but ends up like honey, as it sucks in moisture. But, it leaves a nice finish - now I have to decide whether to let it weather to a nice "charcoal" from the UV, or coat it with black...got a while to decide...like, tomorrow???







But, back to work tomorrow...I can use the rest, though!!!

R

 

Looks like a great use of vacation time. Who needs the beach?

 

Ssshhhhh...I told my wife we WERE at the beach...sandblasting can be SO much fun. Told her we had the bad luck, of going when the hurricane hit...not sure what I can pass off painting the cab and bed as.



R

 

That looks real nice, what type of paint is that? Is it supposed to be topcoated? I used some Rust Bullet lately and it says it can be sprayed but it would take a gun and pressure that would spray tar LOL. I did like it but I would topcoat it.

 

The paint is called "Chassis Saver" (click on the name, for a link to the company). You can topcoat it easily. They say it is affected by UV light, and will turn a charcoal color if you don't topcoat it, and they do NOT recommend just a clear. The charcoal would vary by exposure, so might be "splotchy". You can topcoat it with any type of paint after 24 hours, with a light sanding to scratch the surface, or you can use a urethane if you spray while it's still a tad tacky, from 3 to 8 hour window. I didn't have the urethane, so if I topcoat it, it will be later. I wish I could see how the charcoal would look, because if it turns out "weathered", it might not be too bad! You can spray this stuff, after thinning about 10%, with a 1.7 tip, although people I've talked to say a 2.0 tip is much better. I wouldn't want to spray anywhere except a booth, because this stuff is tenacious! Whatever got overspray would ALWAYS have overspray! But, a booth isn't in the plans. It really floats out well, with a brush, and I think a sponge brush would be even better, although my experience with the foam brushes, is that it introduces a lot more air bubbles into the finish.

You can spray the newer urethanes pretty easily with an HVLP gun, without making much of a mess. I sprayed the top of my cab, with epoxy primer, inside, no problem.

I think I'm going to like it, just fine...

R

 

I went ahead and got the reducer to go with mine, but after seeing your results I'm just gonna brush it on. How much of the gallon do you have left after finishing the frame?
Mike