Hi Guys,
My (until now) reliable old aerostar finally quit on me the other day.

87 3.0 shorty manual xlt dual air/heat loaded

Odo says 110k but previous owner said it was 200k. No idea about scheduled maintance history - was a very cheap truck.

It did seem to be running a little weak for a couple days before, but just a little. There has been a problem since I've owned it where the idle is inconsistant, doesn't die - idles very high at times, as high as 2-3k (mostly when warm). Verywell maybe unrealated but thought I'd throw that out there.
(I suspect a vacuum leak or faulty IAC, but haven't chased that one down yet.)

Anyway - the current problem.
Just stalled while runing down a 45mph rode.

Odd thing is , it seems to want to run while cranking - appears to fire pretty much right away , but as soon as I release the starter the engine stalls again.

Now I've wrecked the starter drive and it just spins(starter) without turning over engine - lol opps. Went home on a hook.

So, 1st job is repair the starter today. Then start troubleshooting the rest,

Of course now I can't find my electric $ vacuum manual to locate circuits to check.

Anybody have a simular experience or suggestions ?

I think i can hear the fuel pump come on for just a couple seconds as the key is turned on. I suppose I should test spark and see if there is fuel at the rail. Darn the engine compartment is tight !

Any suggestions apprecieated...

Thanks, this fourm is the greatest.

 

spark first. the TFI module on the distributor side on these fails often. made many a Ford driver a walker

measure fuel pressure at fuel rail fitting

use the autozone site for detailed service info, parts location and wiring diag.s

 

Before you start checking TFI check for PIP pulses. Have you fuelp pump working for some seconds after starter cranked engine?

Yes, TFI mounted on distributor fails becouse of overheating.... HOT!!!!



I got external TFI from newer ford and moved it to under a dash.

 

Hi Guys - Thanks for the suggestion ! Much appreciated !

here's where I'm at.

pulled started - replaced the drive. too bad, there is and bad spot ion the flywheel and it s a matter of time before it stops there, oh well. At least the truck is a manual and I think can rock it pasted the spot if I need to.

Installed the started and tried it.

Fires up immediately, runs for 5 seconds (AFTER key is released!) and then sputters, misses and dies.

2nd try it again fires up right away. Only this time it remains running. Everything seems normal - throttle response is fine. After a couple minutes I drive it around the parking lot a few times, seems normal.
Drive it around the neighborhood, east at 1st then more and more aggressive.
Full operating temp but not overheating. Seems normal.
After maybe 15 minutes I finally shut it off with the key. Restart several time and no problem.

I did however have the doghouse open during test drive so maybe the temp around the distro was lower than normal.

After chasing a bunch of webpages about the fail rate of Ford TFI I'm at least going to get a spare for the truck.

I did wiggle at the connectors and wires around the TFI and coil.
Not confident I've actually fixed anything other than the starter.

A question about the TFI tho:

I have some silicone base heatsink compound - would that be ok to reinstall the TFI or use on new TFI ? It's "type Z9" by CG Electrics, a general purpose compound to help make a thermal bond between small electronics and heatsinks.

Thanks again, I'll update if it happens again.

 

how many miles/years on fuel filter?
plugged filter causes intermittent headaches in these FI Fords

pull the codes per the sticky thread at top of forum and post codes here please.
may tell us if your TFI or ign. system is intermittent.

use silicone dielectric ignition/spark plug grease on all the Aero electrical connectors exposed to moisture, rain, road spray, antifreeze leaks.

some of the heatsink compounds have zinc compounds in them for heat transfer. i would be careful where i use it. if your TFI is mounted on a heatsink then apply to bond area between. believe the radiator frame mount TFIs use a heatsink compound for mounting bond.

 

Thanks again 96_4wdr !

No clue about previous matienance..fuel filter original or not. Might very well be original.

Opps, according to Autozone repair guides there appears to be 3 fuel filters on the FI 87 aerostar. I recognize one of them just forward of the tank and that looks like the one pictured in their online store. At $7 i think it's going to get changed soon just to be sure.

Tried to pull codes before without much success - digital meter no so good I think. I'll grab a analog meter or code puller and try again - been wanting to do that anyway for the idle issue.

Tonight I drove the truck about ten miles and it ran continuously, power was as good as ever. But I did notice my head unit had reset to factory setting - meaning it acted as if power was completely removed. Looks like all lights, windows and locks are still functioning. All fuses are in good shape(in fuse box). Wouldn't be surprised if the reset happened when I screwed up the starter. Anyway - hope the codes are still in the ECU. I believe it's an ODBI.

I'll also get the proper grease for the connectors. My TFI is mounted to the distro - that's where I was thinking to use the thermal compound.

Pablo-UA :
What newer fords use that compatible remote TFI ?

 

Hi Zoldaar,

Look at the top of the forum. There is a sticky on it showing you how to read the code without voltmeter or code reader. Try that first.

 

Zoldaar! Ford cars with distributor less system have this TFI but.... one pin (DIS out) should not be connected. I added 3 wires for PIP sensor power supply and PIP signal... No 3 pins on top of this TFI.

 

Round Two - DING !

Been avoiding driving the aero cause I'm not too trusting in her at this point. But 2 rainy days this week coaxed me leave the motorcycle home and try. About a 30 mile round trip to work. No problem yesterday, ran as usual (with intermittent high idle). Today, on the way home bingo - traveling down a secondary road (~40mph) and she shuts off like ran out of gas. Gas level was low but not empty - indicated 3 gals left . Previous time it failed was about 5 gallons indicated.
I have read about possibly burning a fuel pump by running the tank very lo - and I have been doing that. ( Now its over half tank ).

Ok , after it quit she exhibited the same symptoms. Engine fires immediately while cranking and dies as soon as the key is released. Almost seems like an ignition switch thing. Smacked the switch/steering column several times and from different directions - no good. So I just let it set about maybe 10-15 minutes it started up and ran fine - drove home without further incident.

Tried to pull codes with an analog meter, but I'm not sure I did it right.

Looks like 11 11 1 18 18 to me, but maybe I'm not reading it correctly. Here's a very blurry video of the meter - sorry , only has enough camera batteries for one try tonight.

aero-odbi-codes.flv - Video - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

no more codes after the camera stooped anyway.

looks like 11 is system passed , 18 is either spout grounded or open ?

The meter is an ESV for remote control rechargeable batteries, Expanded Scale Voltmeter - meaning voltages below 7.V don't even show up, so if your used to seeing blips below about V the meter isn't going to show it.

Haven't replaced anything yet...except the starter drive.

I'm thinking TFI this weekend , at least re-seat it with fresh thermal compound - and probably fuel filter too.

Thanks guys ! - still hunting ...

 

yeah, try to change tfi. I had the same simptoms before she died on road.

 

Maybe who ever installed the last TFI rounded the bolts - I don't know, but no socket I could fit in there would turn either of them. Finally resorted to drilling them out and replacing with phillips screws .

In case your looking to replace yours - its metric - 4mm x .7 pitch x 10mm long is fine.

Anyway , finally got the new TFI installed and drove to work and back without incident(~30 miles). So far so good !

Autozone tried to test the old TFI and concluded it was bad - but I'm not 100% confident he knew what he was doing (admittedly neither was he).

Time will tell , but haven't had to push or tow it again so life is good ! I'll report back with any updates.

Thanks a bunch fellas !

 

don't be surprised if the new one fails in a year or two.
these dist. mounted TFIs were one of Ford's Worst Ideas. they refused to answer the problem with customers and lost many because of it.
my parents walked out of the hills at least twice with bad dist. mount tfi's in Ranger 3Ls, also a couple brothers.
i refused to buy one

ford improved but not totally solved the TFI failure problem when they redesigned and moved it to fender/radiator frame mounts with heat sink and cold air flow

 

don't be surprised if the new one fails in a year or two.
these dist. mounted TFIs were one of Ford's Worst Ideas. they refused to answer the problem with customers and lost many because of it.
my parents walked out of the hills at least twice with bad dist. mount tfi's in Ranger 3Ls, also a couple brothers.
i refused to buy one

ford improved but not totally solved the TFI failure problem when they redesigned and moved it to fender/radiator frame mounts with heat sink and cold air flow

 

The TFI module requires a special thin-wall socket (5/32", I think) to get into the well that the bolts are recessed in. I got one a long time ago, made by Lile, I think. I thought I might have had to use it on my 87 Mustang, but it never had a problem. That's particularly fortunate, since the distributor is wrapped in a rubber cover, further trapping heat generated by the ignition.