engine issues
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engine issues
i own a 300 straight 6, its an 83. smoke seems to be coming from the top of the motor, i figured it was the gasket, i changed it but to no avail. the other day i was driving it and it started to leak radiaitor fluid. but isnt leaking now. Whats wrong with my truck?
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Where is the smoke? Breather, or out of the areas where oil has been leaking for 25 years?
Where is the leak? Hose, water pump, housing, heater hoses, out of the overflow on the top of the radiator?
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i changed the valve cover gasket. the coolant leaked from the bottom of the rad. it seemed like it overheated. it seems like smoke comes from the back of the motor near the top (right under the valve cover gasket) idk. im going to see what happens tom. ill describe the symptoms better. i flushed the radiator out today, it was really dirty. update tom.
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well today i took the rad. out, and i flushed it. i called my brother (the mechanic) and he told me to take the thermo. out. so i took it out. im just waiting now to go to advanced auto parts and get some sealent for the thermo. housing so i can put that back in. the rad. was super dirty inside. i need this truck to be running before june 9th as i will be starting school. i hope its nothing major. any ideas. will keep posted.
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You need to find out if the rad was leaking or just a loose hose.
If it was leaking, you must have it repaired.
Taking the thermostat out will keep the engine cooler but eventually the heat and pressure will come, bringing back the leak.
Sometimes a leak at the top will run down the rad and show at the bottom. The radiator shop will pressurize the rad with air and dip it in the tank to find the leak. I suppose you could do this at home if you have anything to dip the rad into.
The smoke up top might just be old leaked oil. Check and see. Could just be some blowby, check your pcv set up.
If it was leaking, you must have it repaired.
Taking the thermostat out will keep the engine cooler but eventually the heat and pressure will come, bringing back the leak.
Sometimes a leak at the top will run down the rad and show at the bottom. The radiator shop will pressurize the rad with air and dip it in the tank to find the leak. I suppose you could do this at home if you have anything to dip the rad into.
The smoke up top might just be old leaked oil. Check and see. Could just be some blowby, check your pcv set up.
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i couldnt find any leaks today on the rad. i took it out flushed it, and looked for leaks couldnt find none. i took the thermo out it was caked on very old. i bought a lower temp. i think 180. im going to install it tom. and see what happens.
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well i installed everything. i bought a new fuel filter, thermo, and a thermo. housing gasket. Waiting for it to dry so i can check everything in the morning, I just need to add water to the rad. and see what happens...
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The radiator needs to be under pressure to give it a real world test.
The 180 thermo only lets it will open at 180 allowing the coolant to circulate through the radiator because now the engine is warmed up. The engine will find its equilibrium temperature once warmed up...past 180 in most climates.
For fuel injected owners, a 180 won't work for you at least in the winter. It opens at 180, the outside air is cold, the engine never warms up, the cold temp sensor says it's a cold engine so the computer keeps it running in a rich mode...wasting gas and fouling plugs.
The 180 thermo only lets it will open at 180 allowing the coolant to circulate through the radiator because now the engine is warmed up. The engine will find its equilibrium temperature once warmed up...past 180 in most climates.
For fuel injected owners, a 180 won't work for you at least in the winter. It opens at 180, the outside air is cold, the engine never warms up, the cold temp sensor says it's a cold engine so the computer keeps it running in a rich mode...wasting gas and fouling plugs.
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well this is whats up right now. i had to install a new water neck. as i was tightening the bottom bolt it cracked, breaking the bolt part off the 25 year old water neck. Im waiting for it to dry, get this the rad. has a leak again prob. b/c its 25 years old. ima try throwing an egg in it.
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The egg trick won't get you far.
Pull the rad and take it to a shop and get it fixed. If a row is bad, have them block it off, you have plenty of radiator.
You may finish a trip or get home with a trick like the egg. To start a trip using it is just plain foolish.
Pull the rad and take it to a shop and get it fixed. If a row is bad, have them block it off, you have plenty of radiator.
You may finish a trip or get home with a trick like the egg. To start a trip using it is just plain foolish.
MSEE
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From: Austin, TX
Here's something else. I replaced my thermostat housing because the heater hose fitting needed replaced, but there was no way it was coming out. But I couldn't find a new one that actually had a counterbore for the thermostat to sit in. I had to have a machine shop bore my new one to accept the thermostat. BTW, use a torque wrench to see if you're tightening those bolts too much and breaking the housing. If I recall correctly, the housing on my motor (79 block) uses 5/16-18 bolts and they take about 14-18 ft-lbs. Easy to overtighten. Tigthen them evenly as well - don't cinch one side all the way down and then move to the other one. Do each one a little at a time until they're both done. That's a general rule for any flanged surface. As for your radiator, you can have a radiator shop pressure-test it to find the leaks and they can solder any problem areas. If your radiator already has solder joints all over it, it's in your best interest to buy a new radiator. They usually run between 200 and 300 dollars.
In the picture: old housing on the right, new housing on the left after being modified.
In the picture: old housing on the right, new housing on the left after being modified.
