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CCV into exhaust.
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 11,288
Likes: 269
From: North of Greenville
I'm not sure I can see much to the "lubricity" argument because the vapors are simply becoming a portion of the air sideof the air:fuel ratio.
What the vapors are doing is 1) being burned in the combustion chamber, but at the same time 2) they are also displacing the equivalent volume of air (and corresponding oxygen). If you're pushing a lot of black smoke because your lean on air supply, the CC vapors are going to compromise your combustion efficiency. If, on the other hand, you rarely if ever see black smoke, it's an indication of excess air in the combustion cycle, which then means that the presence of the CC vapors probably will not hurt combustion efficiency.
Just another engineer's perspective
What the vapors are doing is 1) being burned in the combustion chamber, but at the same time 2) they are also displacing the equivalent volume of air (and corresponding oxygen). If you're pushing a lot of black smoke because your lean on air supply, the CC vapors are going to compromise your combustion efficiency. If, on the other hand, you rarely if ever see black smoke, it's an indication of excess air in the combustion cycle, which then means that the presence of the CC vapors probably will not hurt combustion efficiency.
Just another engineer's perspective
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 10,600
Likes: 3
From: Carhenge
I'm not sure I can see much to the "lubricity" argument because the vapors are simply becoming a portion of the air sideof the air:fuel ratio.
What the vapors are doing is 1) being burned in the combustion chamber, but at the same time 2) they are also displacing the equivalent volume of air (and corresponding oxygen). If you're pushing a lot of black smoke because your lean on air supply, the CC vapors are going to compromise your combustion efficiency. If, on the other hand, you rarely if ever see black smoke, it's an indication of excess air in the combustion cycle, which then means that the presence of the CC vapors probably will not hurt combustion efficiency.
Just another engineer's perspective
What the vapors are doing is 1) being burned in the combustion chamber, but at the same time 2) they are also displacing the equivalent volume of air (and corresponding oxygen). If you're pushing a lot of black smoke because your lean on air supply, the CC vapors are going to compromise your combustion efficiency. If, on the other hand, you rarely if ever see black smoke, it's an indication of excess air in the combustion cycle, which then means that the presence of the CC vapors probably will not hurt combustion efficiency.
Just another engineer's perspective
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 7,413
Likes: 1
From: Columbia, MO
I have also tested a positive pressure from the actual tube in the exhaust, not just the oil filler cap. I hooked up Gene's gauge directly to the tube I had running into the exhaust. When I saw positive pressure, the CCV never went back into the exhaust.
Hook it, I'll pull it.
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 15,037
Likes: 4
From: Grand Lake, La.
I think either vent it to the air or leave it stock has good and bad. I don't want the smoke and smell while running my truck in my shop. I don't like the oily boots after years of not cleaning them. I will keep mine stock and keep my boots clean, thats an excuse to pull the wrenches out again. 
Ron, I had no idea you was such a good engineer. lol
Ron, I had no idea you was such a good engineer. lol
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Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,647
Likes: 0
From: Fulltime RVer
The thread below was a recent review, and it has links to previous threads on the subject which among other things explain why you can route the CCV to the header pipes on a high RPM gasser, but not to the tailpipe on a turbocharged diesel.
CCV mod into exhaust?
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...o-exhaust.html
My measurements and those done by Jeremy both indicate that routing the CCV to the tailpipe in a turbocharged diesel will add pressure to the crankcase under any and all conditions, the only thing that varied with throttle position was how much exhaust pressure got added!
CCV mod into exhaust?
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...o-exhaust.html
My measurements and those done by Jeremy both indicate that routing the CCV to the tailpipe in a turbocharged diesel will add pressure to the crankcase under any and all conditions, the only thing that varied with throttle position was how much exhaust pressure got added!
A number of us have tried it, including me, but have since removed it. I put a pressure gauge on the tube that I had running into the exhaust, like you described it with the bung in the direction of the flow, and it actually was not providing a suction, but giving pressure. If hooked up to the CCV, this would pressurize your crankcase, which is a bad thing.
The general consensus is to stay with a free flowing tube that just vents to the atmosphere.
The general consensus is to stay with a free flowing tube that just vents to the atmosphere.
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,647
Likes: 0
From: Fulltime RVer
WARNING!!!
I saw a mention here of routing the CCV hose back into the intake via the hole in the end of a 6637 air filter. I don't think this is wise for several reasons.
1) The reason for doing the CCV mod in the first place is to avoid fouling the entire CAC system with oil fumes. An oil film on the compressor wheel reduces its efficiency, liquid oil accumulates in the IC which reduces its efficiency, oil migrates under the clamps on the CAC boots allowing them to blow off under high boost, and I don't think that oil and paper (6637 filter) will play well together either.
2) The OEM plastic CCV coupler employs a combination of a Venturi plus an air scoop to regulate the vacuum applied to the CCV input hose so that it stays between about 4" to 7" H20 for all load conditions. If you've replaced the OEM plastic CCV coupler with a straight pipe as most do with a 6637 mod, you'll get too much vacuum at high boost and suck the oil from your crankcase!
I saw a mention here of routing the CCV hose back into the intake via the hole in the end of a 6637 air filter. I don't think this is wise for several reasons.
1) The reason for doing the CCV mod in the first place is to avoid fouling the entire CAC system with oil fumes. An oil film on the compressor wheel reduces its efficiency, liquid oil accumulates in the IC which reduces its efficiency, oil migrates under the clamps on the CAC boots allowing them to blow off under high boost, and I don't think that oil and paper (6637 filter) will play well together either.
2) The OEM plastic CCV coupler employs a combination of a Venturi plus an air scoop to regulate the vacuum applied to the CCV input hose so that it stays between about 4" to 7" H20 for all load conditions. If you've replaced the OEM plastic CCV coupler with a straight pipe as most do with a 6637 mod, you'll get too much vacuum at high boost and suck the oil from your crankcase!
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 1,832
Likes: 0
From: McRae, AR
I'm in the process of venting my CCV out below the framerail.
Like others here, I wish there were a better way.
I have been researching using an electric smog pump (aka Secondary Air Injection Pump) to pull a slight vacuum on the CC.
It would seem that most of these aren't designed to run continuously though, so it would need a pressure switch or some sort of variable speed.
I've found a couple of people on other sites doing setups like this on dragsters, connected via toggle switch for single passes.
Most of the reading I have done so far seems to indicate that the Bosch air pumps (BMW, Audi, VW) are made better than the OEM pumps by Ford and GM.
This is something I have been reading on, but for now I'm going to just vent it.
It also crossed my mind.. how much of a drain HP wise that a regular belt-driven smog pump would have.
I just know there is a way to have our cake and eat it too
Like others here, I wish there were a better way.
I have been researching using an electric smog pump (aka Secondary Air Injection Pump) to pull a slight vacuum on the CC.
It would seem that most of these aren't designed to run continuously though, so it would need a pressure switch or some sort of variable speed.
I've found a couple of people on other sites doing setups like this on dragsters, connected via toggle switch for single passes.
Most of the reading I have done so far seems to indicate that the Bosch air pumps (BMW, Audi, VW) are made better than the OEM pumps by Ford and GM.
This is something I have been reading on, but for now I'm going to just vent it.
It also crossed my mind.. how much of a drain HP wise that a regular belt-driven smog pump would have.
I just know there is a way to have our cake and eat it too
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 7,413
Likes: 1
From: Columbia, MO
I doubt it would be enough to even notice or measure, especially on these engines...maybe 1-2 HP.