Best Sub Location in Bronco
Chuck
Amps and subs should be ohm matched. (IE. total resistence of the subs should match the rated output of the amp.)
The amps should be able to exceed the rated rms wattage of the subs.
Both should have a good dampening factor
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All this aside, what we try to achieve by placing a sub facing a corner, is loading it. The air in the corner oscillates with the cone and makes the cone seem heavier, thereby lowering the resonate frequency. Efficiency should also go down due to the increased weight of the cone. This depends more on the shape of the corner. A good horn can actually increase efficiency.
I always remember subs are loud in hatchbacks when they face straight up at the glass and the port is farthest back also facing up. It makes a nice horn with the baffle of the box and the glass at that angle. What to do in a bronco to mimic this, I don't know. One popular idea is to "powerwedge" the subs. Build the box such that the subs face each other at an angle and the ports too. An MM shaped box. That would be a nice setup in a roomy bronco.
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Aiming directly up gave me some nasty roof flexing and rattling.
Aiming left or right(sides of car) didint seem to have the "impact" i was looking for.
Aiming forwards into the seat just sounded horrible, muffled....
Aiming toward the rear hatch yeilded the best results.
I have the sub/port about 4"-6" away from the rear. i tried all different distances and this created the best sound for me.
If your plan on making a complex box, or do allot of work on one, before you do it make a test box, just so you can aim it all different ways and find the best in YOUR car, then make the real box setup to fire that way. It's no fun finishing a nice box only to find you dont like the way it sounds!
as far as aiming into a corner, i didint get any added benifits compared aiming back. and angling the box didint sound any better than it did when it was parallel with the rear of the car.
the only time ive heard of any trouble with "standing waves" is in a perfect cube. Ive never had any ill effects from a rectangular box....I've always been told the the length of soundwaves are too long to have standing waves, particularly in the subbass region where the waves can be measured in yards!...but if you want to spend the time making sure you have no parallel walls then go right ahead

and if you do get an amp that produces more power than then the rms of the sub, make sure you dont push that amp too hard, because you can damage your subs pretty fast by giving them too much power!
either way a small amp or a big amp, just be aware of your settings and dont try to get more out of your system than it's capable of.....it'll end up costing you in the end...
good luck!
gscustoms
oh, you can see my setup here-
http://www.betteraudio.com/gscustoms click Car Audio on the left
>straight up at the glass and the port is farthest back also
>facing up. It makes a nice horn with the baffle of the box
>and the glass at that angle. What to do in a bronco to
>mimic this, I don't know. One popular idea is to
>"powerwedge" the subs. Build the box such that the subs
>face each other at an angle and the ports too. An MM shaped
>box. That would be a nice setup in a roomy bronco.
My buddy/teammate Ken is the Illinois record holder for MECA in the AS-3 Class with a 152.8 legal. He's running just 2 RF Punch HX2 12" subs in a CRX-Style Box in a 1992 Blazer. For power, he has a RF bd1500.1 amp.
http://images.cardomain.com/installs/192000-192999/192245_26_full.jpg
http://www.sounddomain.com/id/boomin_blazer
Regardless if the vehicle is a hatchback or suv, the CRX-Style Box is made up of a ported box with the sub(s) firing up and the port firing towards the rear. This creates additional distance between the front of the sub and the dash and the rear of the sub and the dash (going throught he port). Before I forget, there should be plenty of room between the back of the box and the tailgate. At one comp, Ken slid his box towards the rear of his blazer to show off his amps to an onlooker. After forgetting to move the box back, that run landed him a score in the mid-40s. Additional information on this topic can be found here:
http://www.caraudiomag.com/technical/0203cae_box2/
More info on CRX-Style Boxes:
* [link:www.termpro.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=8;t=011553|Topic: What is the "typical CRX box"]
* [link:www.termpro.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ubbiquery.asp?qu=crx+box&FreeText=&SortMethod=2&Sc opeSelect=&sc=%2Fubb&pg=1&RankBase=320&DateMethod= 2&StartDate=1%2F16%2F03&StopDate=1%2F17%2F03|Searc h on Termpro]
Tempe
I have a 1988 Bronco also, and Im working on this problem myself.
I have a Alpine CDM-7874 head unit, Rockford Fosgate 6.5s in the front doors, Pioneer 6x8s in the back.
I don't want to give up any space at all in my bronco, so I decided to go with 1 8" kicker Solar Baric with a SoundStream R405 amp to power the 6x8s and the sub channel.
Deal with the Kicker Solar Barics is you DO NOT use a large enclosure. They were designed to work with limited airspace in a sealed box.
I myself don't want *Booming, hair vibrating bass* I was crystal clear quality sound.
On the passenger side, there is a kick panel in the back near the tailgate. Im going to build a box to accomodate 1 8" Kicker SolarBaric sub. Won't stick out into the bed but about 1 1/2 inches leaving every conceivable foot of space still available to my family and dog to use
Also, near the seatbelts for the front passengers, on the sides of the seats would be another good location.
What these other guys were talking about, is high performance booming systems and don't apply to what you and I are trying to achieve. I do appreciate their opinions on how to create a great sounding Boom Monster though

Email me at johnnyo @ belmontent . com and I'll show you some pics of where I am talking about putting them.
JohnnyO



