Hello,

I currently have a 64 f100 that has a 292. It smokes and knocks and is in general need of a rebuild. I am interested in putting an inline 6 in this truck. The 292 has the typical front and rear(Next to the trans) motor mounts. An inline 6 should have mounts that bolt on to the frame to the sides of the motor if I'm not mistaken.....the question is, is it possible to put an inline 6 in this truck if I were to install new mounts onto the frame, and if so, is this a pretty simple task? I have a friend that is trying to tell me that I cant install an inline 6 without doing extensive work to make enough clearance from the front axle. (He also wants to buy the truck from me, coincidentally) I guess I'm hard headed because I really want to this, can anyone out there give me some pointers, or maybe have an old inline they want to swap for my Y block? Thanks, Shaun[IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/ADMINI%7E1/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot.jpg[/IMG]

 

Hello oldblue
I don't know much about the 64 frame with solid front axle. Some one will know. In the mean time take a look at my gallery. I have a picture of an inline six in a 65 frame.
Can I ask why a six and not a 352-390?

 

Ok Hi,
I am in the same boat with this one. I have a 64 w/ a 292 in it. I want to put a 300 I-6 in it. A 223-6 will bolt right in with a change to the front mount.
A 300 requires a side mount. I have seen them mounted in a 60's mercury truck with a front & rear mount. Go to you tube and look at M-100 W/ 300 six in it.

Best knowledge I have is to use a crossmember (side mount), use an aftermarket FE mount. the spacing is supposedly the same. should bolt to your frame and allow you to sit a 300 right in. they are available from LMC, concours restoration, and many others.

You need a "windsor" bolt pattern trany. there is a wealth of them, 289, 302, 240, 300, and 351W all used the same 6 bolt pattern. you may need to fab a trany support as the 292 trany and engine were intergaly supported.

If you use the 80-96 4wd oil pan (some 2 wd used them.) it has a rear sump and will clear the crossmemeber.

Watch your radiator clearence you may need to shim it forward to clear the fan. there are short nosed waterpumps available. I think they were used in the 70's they cost about $50. An electric fan will save you some room if neccisary but dont cool as well.

Good luck and let me know if you need any help. I realy want to do this but have to pay some bills and restore my body first.

 

A 223 will bolt right in. There's a hole in the front crossmember where the U-shaped bracket connects to the motor mount. (You can see the hole). If you use a 3 or 4 speed which comes with the 223 you should also have the mounts that match the 292 mounts. Not sure if your 292 tranny will bolt up to the 223 or not. But tranny's are plentiful. If your looking at a later model 6, I can't help you.
If you do decide to swap the engines, I could use the bracket welded to the back of the front crossmember where the 292 motor mount attaches. (My truck came from the factory with a 6 so the bracket is not there as the 6 won't fit with the bracket there. Why not just rebuild the 292 Y-block?

 

Thanks for the good info. I was wanting to install the 6 cylinder because I am not interested in high performance but rather just want reliability. I know, I know, the 292 could be reliable too if I rebuilt it. I have just heard alot of stories about the poor oiling to the top end that this motor has. It is probably gonna need alot of bread put into it. I figure I can get an I-6 for pretty cheap. The truck runs and drives now. So the tranny sounds good and the truck actually drives pretty good. It just smokes out the passenger exhaust pipe(Dual exhaust) and is clacking pretty good from the lifters, so like so many people have told me it most likely is not oiling good to the top half. The smoking could possibly be a bad valve guide seal but I dont know because I havent done a compression check yet. So, putting in an I-6 is do-able! I'm excited. now I just have to make sure the bolt holes are the same for my tranny. Anyone got a used 223 laying around looking to swap for the 292?[IMG][/IMG]

 

Where you at Im in ND. I know of one you could probobly get preety reasonable. If you want to save a buck just have your heads on the 292 worked over. cost about $300 in labor at a machine shop and $100 in gaskets and such to put them on.
A full rebuild on a 292 will run about 2k in parts and labor. I doubt a 223 would be alot cheaper. theyre kinda hit and miss to find too.

 

You can pretty mcuh swap what eveer engine you want in your truck. Some of us have even gone the big block route without too many problems. Its all in the prep work you do before you even spend a dime. In otherwords gathering the information required to do such a swap. Also add another $500 to the cost for misc parts that slipped your mind. Now compare that with rebuilding your 292.

I agree with flipklos on rebuilding what you have. The time spent pulling the old motor and replacing it with another is a lot more then a weekend. You can practically rebuild the 292 in the truck. The only difficult thing would be dropping the oil pan or the crank out of the block.

Also check to see if you can find a rebuilt 292 that is ready to drop in. I know there are a few places that have 292's available with a pretty good warrenty to go with them. If you have to wait a few weeks for one to be built and sent you'll still be able to move your truck around while waiting.

These are all things to concider before jumping into a engine swap. What works best for you should be the route you take. We all have different opinions on what you should or shouldn't do but we aren't paying for it in the end.

 

I can see that this is going to demand patience. I am looking for the easiest way out(and cheapest too) The heads may be the answer. Hopefully I'm not dealing with a broken ring. I just want the truck for cruising around on back roads, not looking for high performance. With the truck smoking like it does, is it risky to drive it? Is there a chance it just needs to be driven? It's sat for about 2 years only being driven around a couple of acres, every now and then for yard work. thoughts?

 

Well then lets start off with the basics. First you need to know for sure what the overall condition of the engine is. I know you voiced concern over proper oiling, whether or not the engine is toast, and how much it costs. If you have access to a compression guage and a vacuum gauge that will tell you a lot. Use the vacuum gauge first to see what the valve train is doing. There are a few sites that explain how to read them. This one has pictures, How to Use and Interpret a Vacuum Gauge Once you know what the engine is up to then move on to the compression test. The compression test will show which cyliders are worn and what the over all condition of the rings are. Make sure the engine is warm before you do it though. Disconnect the coil power and cover the exposed terminal, pull all the spark plugs, take off the air cleaner, hold the carb open, crank the engine over 3-5 revolutions per cylinder, and write it down. Compare all the cylinder pressures to one another. You should not have more then a 10% drop between the highest and lowest cylinder. Once this is complete you can go back to the low cylinders and squirt some oil in the spark plug hole to help seal the rings. If the reads don't change then the valves aren't sealing correctly. Then there is another site I want to you look at to do a little more testing. It explains in more detail on the site. Dynamic Compression Test

Once you know the overall condition of the engine you'll be able to make a better decision on what is best for you and where you need to put the $$$ into without wasting it.