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I am working on a '64 292 truck engine. The engine was said to be in running condition when it was pulled but I decided to go thru it from the bottom up. The bottom end looks great and so do the pistons/cylinders. When I pulled the timing cover it was obvious a new timing set was in order. I have a performance grind cam to install from Red's Headers and a set of rebuilt heads. The engine is on a stand. The distributor is still installed. I have not pulled the timing chain and gears yet.
I was thinking I should set the #1 piston to TDC and check the timing mark on the harmonic dampner and the timing gears and the postion of the distributor rotor before removing any parts. I know about the 12 links between timing marks and the marks point to about 3 o'clock.
The engine can be rotated so the lifters will be out of the way to pull the cam.
How I did mine:
Remove rocker shafts and push rods,
Remove the distributor,
Turn the engine upsidedown,
Roll the crank through two revolutions,
Make sure the lifters are out of the way,
Pull the timing set, *DON'T* move the crank
at this point, and don't remove the gears
from the chain.
Install your new cam, and using the timing
set, put the cam in the correct position
for the timing set re-install...
Steve & the Rockette
'63 F100
'68 F100
'72 Capri 2L
'73 Capri 2.6L V6
'73 MG B GT 2.6L V6(Ford)
'98 Contour SVT 2.5L V6 (Mods)
'01 ZX2 (No Mods yet)
Thanks for the advice. Unfortunately after removing the heads and the cam it is evident that a complete rebuild is necessary. So I am pricing parts and looking for a good machine shop in the Oklahoma
City area.
I found a local auto machine shop with good references to do my block and crankshaft. For $295 they will hot tank the block, bore and hone the cylinders, deck the block, turn the crank, and install the cam bearings. NOW I JUST HAVE TO CONVINCE MY WIFE. I finished most of the disassembly togay. I just have to take out the oil gallery plugs and the cam plug.
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