So, forgive me because I am very tired and have forgotten some information.
I recently bought a 93 F-250 with a 7.3 IDI.
I bought it for $4500 CAN with 327K+ kms on it.
It also came with 8 years of maintenance records (I was almost in shock), so I know everything that has been done to it.

Things have been going fairly well, but I have started to run into issues with a few things.
For one, my auto transmission has been over-heating (or so I'm guessing). After a little while of driving, it will start to rev very high at acceleration before shifting into second. It gets just under redline when it does this.

The tranny was recently rebuilt along with a new cooler. The last time i checked the tranny fluid, the color of it was black. So I instantly took it to the mechanic and had the system flushed with that beautiful blood red fluid that I love to see.

After the flush, the truck ran great. Now, about 3 months after the flush, I started to get close to the same symptoms again. Only this time it would rev high during the shift into second. That was the only time it would over-rev itself.

If someone could try and explain this to me before I pay through the nose for this, it would be very appreciated.

This is my first diesel pick-up, and I don't think I will ever go back to that....oh whats it called....Gas engine. Yeah, probably never again.

 

I almost forgot, Does anybody have any feedback on aftermarket transmission coolers?
I'm going to be replacing mine soon anyways, and I wondered if anyone has put one on and had wonders come out of it, or just simple walletbreak (I've seen my wallet cry...so it does happen)

 

I don't know the brand of cooler I bought at autozone but it was like $90 and works very well on my 1995 k1500 with 4l60e. It pulls loads at much cooler temps than it used to expecially on hot days with wind and hills. Im sure the same will apply with the ford e40d. I would not by the cheap ones though, they are for cars and mid sized trucks with very light loads. You need the heavy duty one for RVs and Trucks.

 

if the fluid was black and the only concern is a late 1-2 shift i suspect the intermediate clucthes are damaged
unless all shifts are delayed but the big issue was the black fluid so soon after rebuild

 

Yeah. I wasn't thrilled about the color.
I'm not hammering down on the transmission, and when I'm towing, there is barely any weight on it (about 2000lbs maybe). So, it's all getting kinda frustrating.
Now, If I drive at 70kms an hour, I start to spit some heavy smoke out of the exhaust and the engine really bogs down.
At one point the smoke looked like it was brown.

I need to get the TPS checked out. Thought it was done, but I guess it might not have been fixed right the first time.
I'll be running codes on it in a few minutes.

 

Code 11 - System pass.
So that was nice.

Still want to figure out this transmission though.

Oh, and I completely forgot. I can not manually shift the tranny into 1st gear.
It will not go past second gear on the column, so I need to check into that.
I'll post pictures of it soon.

 

the tps was very prone to wear on its internal resistance board ( potentiometer) on the diesel engine
and can have a bad spot where it normally is when you drive it and wont necessarily set a code
if it is a black tps replace it , grey is the updated model but can still have the same wear issue

 

Would you be able to post a picture of an updated TPS and also the location.
I've been reading up on it as much as I can, but nothing I have read has ever told me where to find it.
And at the current moment, it is pouring rain outside, and my garage is too full and too small for me to pull in so I would love to find it as soon as I go out.

And recently I got a code 23 TP out of self test range.
And, does anyone know where I can find the correct voltage readings for my TPS?
Again, my Chiltons book does not give me them.

 

The TPS is located on the drivers side of the injection pump and is easy to access. The injection pump is right behind the housing where you put in your oil. I don't know the voltage readings for the sensor though. Good luck.

 

Thanks.

Sadly, the TPS is not my issue.
I've spent a good 18 hours just reading through problems with the e40d.
I think I have determined that I'm looking at a new torque converter.
I really really hope that is the problem and it doesn't need a rebuild.
If it does....goodbye vacation.

 

I think code 23 is the fipl sensor or the TPS sensor so your tcm is telling you its either bad or not set correctly. You said the self test is out of rang, so it probaly has an open in it somewhere in the tp sensor. You may try replacing it since it is cheaper and easer than a tq conv and a tranny rebuild. Hate to see someone go through that and ends up being a cheap part from the local autoparts store.Keep it simple. Also , TP, TPS, and FIPL are all refer to the same sensor, just differnt names, just incase you didn't know.

 

I have learned just about every acronym possible for this truck by now.
And I believe that I got the code 23 because I didn't open the throttle while I was trying to get codes.
I've checked the voltage on the TPS and it is within the right voltage, and has no dead spots.
But while driving today, I noticed a nice clunking...ish sound coming from the torque converter. The noise only starts once I'm driving at about 25mph and continues until I just lightly hit the brake pedal.
As soon as the brake lights go on, the noise stops.

All of this just bugs me as the transmission was rebuilt fairly recently.
I have the reciept from the previous owner. I bought the truck off of him about 5,000kms after the rebuild.
Since then i have put 25,000kms on it.
Warranty is not valid anymore so...I'm feeling pretty hooped on this.

 

During this whole thing I have forgotten to mention that my OD light has not been blinking.
The light works, and so does over-drive...but it has never blinked.
Well...during this episode.

It did blink when a tranny cooler line sprung a leak and dumped more than half of the fluid.
I did not try to limp it home. As soon as the light came on, I pulled over and noticed the leak.
Shut off the engine, cut the line and replaced it with some rubber hosing and hose clamps, refilled the trans, then drove home.

I've had a tranny flush since that time.

So I know th OD light works, but it still has not been blinking at me.

 

kind of sounds like to me the od is kicking in way to early and when you hit the brakes its kicking out.

 

But OD kicking in early would not account for the lack of shift between 1st and 2nd gear.
I'll be looking at some nice billet TC's.
Hopefully that is my issue.