OILING MODIFICATIONS

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Mar 25, 2001 | 11:58 AM

darkman

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Joined: Sep 1999

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From: Pensacola Florida

OILING MODIFICATIONS

What modifications can be made to a Y-Block after the block has been cleaned and the oil galleries brushed out to improve the oiling system?

Thanks Charles

Mar 25, 2001 | 05:23 PM

wytfut

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Joined: Jan 2001

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From: Waverly

OILING MODIFICATIONS

this isn't a modification.... and i also don't know what you wish to achieve,.... but my thoughts are, if you have good mains or a fresh rebuild, keep good hi/tech oil in it, and change the oil regularly. the oil designed at the time these motors were build were not that good compared to now. a good "Y" block taken care of will last pretty close to todays motors, in my book anyways

Apr 12, 2001 | 10:35 PM

flatblack

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Joined: Feb 2001

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OILING MODIFICATIONS

One thing I've seen done is to
modify the oiling of the rocker
assembly. They are notorious for
running a little dry. What you do
is take off the overflow tube on the
end of the rocker arm, then you tap
the hole and put in a plug. This
help force the oil out the holes in
the shaft. But the reason the are
dry is usually not enough pressure
to begin with. There is actually a
kit they use to sell called an overhead
oiler. It runs from your oil gallery
thru a tube outside the motor up to
the rocker arms. If you are interested
I can tell you more. Also the Yblock book
has some info on this topic.

Jan 8, 2002 | 07:15 PM

L0ngJ0hn

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Joined: Jan 2002

Posts: 11

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From: Alvarado USA

OILING MODIFICATIONS

Hello There,
Can you tell me where I can get this oiling system ?
I've got a 292 that has a darn near dry rocker shaft!
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
John Mulhall
(L0NGJ0HN)

>One thing I've seen done is to
>modify the oiling of the rocker
>assembly. They are notorious for
>running a little dry. What you do
>is take off the overflow tube on the
>end of the rocker arm, then you tap
>the hole and put in a plug. This
>help force the oil out the holes in
>the shaft. But the reason the are
>dry is usually not enough pressure
>to begin with. There is actually a
>kit they use to sell called an overhead
>oiler. It runs from your oil gallery
>thru a tube outside the motor up to
>the rocker arms. If you are interested
>I can tell you more. Also the Yblock book
>has some info on this topic.

Jan 9, 2002 | 06:31 PM

darkman

Thread Starter

Posting Guru

Joined: Sep 1999

Posts: 1,022

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From: Pensacola Florida

OILING MODIFICATIONS

I've seen these kits on e-Bay for bidding. Try searches for Y-block and I think you'll eventually find one. Maybe someone else knows where you could buy one. I think you could make one if you try!

Charles in Pensacola

Feb 19, 2002 | 02:01 AM

sfal

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Joined: Jun 2000

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OILING MODIFICATIONS

I used to overhaul a lot of these engines in a Ford shop and have owned several of them myself. The external oiling kit is a "get by" for an engine that needs overhaul. In all cases the problem was found to be worn bearings, especially the cam brgs, and usually sludge in the oil passages. The rocker oil has to follow a path around the cam journal to an exit to the cyl head and rocker shaft. When the brg is worn the oil just pours back into the pan instead of going to the rocker shaft. It is a sorry system but works OK with the better oils available today. Just be very careful to install the cam brgs properly.

Aug 16, 2002 | 02:16 AM

pcmenten

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Joined: Mar 2002

Posts: 2,070

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From: Boise, Idaho

OILING MODIFICATIONS

I'm bringing this topic back to the top because I'm in the middle of a 292 rebuild and I'm wondering what fixes I can add while it's apart.

I've drilled holes in the pushrod chamber to allow oil to drip onto the camshaft. I notice that the cam was in poor condition, except for the very last lobe where the oil from the pushrod chamber drains onto it.

And I'll be buying those long stemmed grinder burrs for my die grinder to take edges off the corners in the oil galleys.

Sounds like tapping and plugging the oil return in the rocker shaft is another idea.
I'll be requesting my machinist to try to keep the bearing clearances on the close side, especially on the mains. The main bearings actually looked good. One of the rod bearings is showing a bent rod.

I use Mobil 1. Any recommendations on weight? 30 weight was the original specification. I'm thinking 20W-50 Mobil 1.

The original oil pump on this 292 was the iron gear type. I suppose I'll be buying a new rotor type oil pump to replace it. Any tips?

Thanks In Advance,