I'd bet on the battery; where did you buy it? If it was AutoZone, their 6v batteries just don't last in my experience.

The other thing is your new solenoid. The new repro's are Chinese, and I've heard plenty of beefing about them. I suspect they are really 12v solenoids, and "may" have cheap contacts inside. Try jumpering it when the engine is hot, see if it cranks well.

No one has said it, so I will: plier handles work great for jumpering the solenoid! Just keep the rest of the plier clear of ground!

 

Jumping the solenoid has been done for years as you know Ross all it takes is just a little common sense, if they dont have it by 18 they probley dont need to be driving, or working on a vehicle anyway

 

As much as I like original trucks this issue is the main reason I converted mine to 12 volt. I also put on one of the new gear reduction starters as well. It spins the flatty over as fast as a new car's starter and no more ooOOoo ooOOoo ooOOoo of that slow 6 volt "I think I can" starter.

 

I was talking to Bobj49f2 and he suggested maybe replacing the coil, plugs, ect. Well, last night I replaced the pugs and the coil and it has no more problem starting now. The starter still turns slow so it takes a few turn to get the beast fired up but it starts every time now.

I've been thinking about the 12 volt conversion. Not only do I think it would be easier to start in the middle of winter but I want to be able to hook up a trailer and I would need the 12 volt for the lights.

 

You've gone down the same path I did. The three things that make life with a flathead an enjoyable, reliable experience: a 12v alternator, a gear reduction starter, and an electronic ignition. It is unbelievable the difference those make! It reduces your maintenance to just the fuel system, and half of that can be eliminated with a $20 electric fuel pump.

 

I agree totally Ross. I don't have the electronic ignition yet but that's going to be my treat next payday. I've got a Mallory dual point distributor now, but I'm going to purchase one of their new E-Spark conversions for it and ditch the points.

The really slow cranking on a hot engine is bad enough but the vapor lock makes it a moot point. The electric fuel pump has pretty much eliminated that as well.

 

How much is their E-spark conversion? I put a Pertronix in my Mallory for about $100. Good luck, Jag

 

The one I've got my eye on is #61004M and is listed at $57.99 at JEGS; Amazon.com has it at $54.06 with free super saver shipping.

 

I wholeheartedly agree except I went a different route on the ignition with "Blue Streak" points and condenser. I've been running the these at 12 volts with no ballast resistor for five years now and I haven't even had to adjust them. Cheap points would be a different story!
As much as I don't like the principle of it I'll add to the list a GM alternator.

 

I ran '70's aftermarket 6v points at 12v for about a year with a ballast and had no real problems, but I wanted mechanical advance and vacuum advance. I was feeling buscks-up and sprung for a MSD Ready-to-Run, which uses Ford and GM OEM electronic ignition parts.

PCV is also a big plus IMO.

 

Have you sorted out the starter issue yet...?
If not, double check batt. voltage., correct selinoid (6v is three post, 12v is 4 post) and make sure the starter is not in a bind...loosen the mounting bolts and then snug back and see if it turns better. Gring ground points to chassis and be sure there is no paint on the connection ends of your new cables.
good luck with it
Ed

 

I see no mystery , I have gotten these things out of the box that were junk. I got three
from Napa no questions they gave me another one. Behind the lines those warehouse
guys slam and bang things around.

 

i've been running a 6volt starter and original crab dual point distributor with 12volt condenser and ballast resistor with no point problems for 18 years now. i'm on my 2nd set of points and just replaced coil a month ago. entire engine is externally factory original( fuel, ign, gen, intake, exhaust, etc.) and VERY reliable. i do have a couple of pictures of engine in gallery, would take more if someone wished. granted i don,t go that far on daily basis,(long ride would be about 80 miles), but just wanted to say that if done right, these units will give long life and reliability as long as you don,t pound the crud out of them. enough of my babbling, later

 

if a new starter - won't start......can you still call it a starter?

how much starting would a new starter start if the new starter could start.....


Sorry I resisted as long as I could. I'm gonna agree with big job though, likely just a faulty new starter.

 

If it starts ok when cold and poor engine rotation when hot its electrical (duh like you didn't now that). But did you remember that the new starter as stated by Big Job could be bad. When the electical system get hot it resist current flow. Your description is book example of bad windings. Get starter check while on truck and hot to check amp draw. I bet its drawing to much. If a bench test is done on cool starter it would probably pass test. If warm starter passes then must check voltage drop at each connection. It souds tuff but its not, I can expain it to you with volt numbers (if I can find them). Remember starters need ground to frame from very close to starter. But enough of that for now. Let us know Kurt G. Y-blocks rule.