292 rear main seal

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Oct 12, 2002 | 05:20 PM

MERC414

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From: CALGARY CANADA

292 rear main seal

I am getting a used 292 that has been on an engine stand for 5 yrs.I have been advised to change the rear main seal as they dry ouy from long term sitting.Can this be done without removing the crankshaft?I just do not have the budget to rebuild the engine right now and need my daily driver back on the road!Can anybody out there help me?

Oct 12, 2002 | 09:30 PM

pcmenten

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From: Boise, Idaho

292 rear main seal

This is not answer to your question, this is another question. Since you have to pull the oil pan off to change the rear main seal (by the way, you might as well get the new style neoprene rear main seal instead of the rope type) and you have to replace the pan gaskets, why are you worried about pulling the crankshaft off? Let's see, the front cover needs to be pulled, and the timing chain disconnected from the cam, and when you loosen the rod caps, you'll need to protect the crank by putting rubber booties on all 16 rod bolts, but after that why not just re-assemble with the original parts including bearings?

Oct 15, 2002 | 05:57 PM

canzus

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292 rear main seal

Oct 25, 2002 | 07:21 AM

tomw

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From: suburban atlanta

292 rear main seal

The rear main could dry out, but, think about it. The only exposure that it has is that small area between the main cap and the crankshaft hub/seal surface. The rest is either enclosed in the V-groove or exposed to the crankcase only. I just don't see the problem....
What the heck, if it is so dry, why not just drizzle it with your favorite motor oil for a while?
I do agree, that you could take the crank loose without rebuilding, and it sure it a lot easier with the engine on a stand that it is lying on the ground underneath the car. Remove the pan, Loosen all the main caps, remove the rear main cap, use a pushing tool to remove the top of the old seal, use the 'chinese-finger-puzzle' tool made by Lisle or "Help" to pull in the new top. Trim. trim bottom after soaking in oil. Replace.
I always used the largest socket I could find to squish the new seal into the bearing cap before trying to pull into the block. Ditto with the bottom half. I don't know neoprene. Way after my time.
tom

Oct 26, 2002 | 09:53 AM

rogerf100

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From: Owasso Oklahoma USA

292 rear main seal

RogerF100
'55 F100

I have to agree with replacing the rear seal if it is the rope type. Use the newer and better neoprene seal. There is a reason it was developed, it doesn't leak. The rope seal will dry out just sitting for 5 years if no oil was in the pan. It could possibly be revived by removing it and letting it soak in hot motor oil. That is what should be done to a new rope seal as well, before it is installed.

Feb 8, 2009 | 06:40 PM

1964F100

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Joined: Dec 2008

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Hey everybody. I was told that the ford 292 was pretty much the same as the mercury 312 but not sure. Also if it is, where can i find one of the neoprene rear main seals.

Feb 8, 2009 | 10:27 PM

Y-Blockhead

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Joined: Dec 2006

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From: Redondo Beach, CA

1964F100,

312's have larger diameter main journals so theY take different bearings and rear main seal that the 272/292. You can get neoprene seals from FORD Y and other places...