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Old May 12, 2008 | 05:52 PM
  #1  
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Trans removal

I'm in the process of taking out my trans and was curious if anyone had any tips or a guide to go by from someone that has already been where I am venturing. I have a Hanes manual but it's vague. One concern was that is says I have to remove the exhaust pipe at the manifold. Do I have to do this? I have done about 6 removal but not out trucks yet. ANy help or advice would be outstanding.

Thanks
Ben
 
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Old May 12, 2008 | 06:40 PM
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Man, you talk about vague information. Are you taking out an auto, or manuel?
 
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Old May 12, 2008 | 07:00 PM
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My bad, it's an auto. I'm assuming the manual is talking about the down pipe and if that's the case shouldnt I go ahead and change the down pipe while I have it off?
 
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Old May 12, 2008 | 07:09 PM
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No, you don't need to remove the exhaust. There is a heat shield between it and the tranny anyway so unless it's really hot, dont worry about it. When it was at BTS, they jacked the rear of the truck up about two feet to level the engine out so it wouldnt fall into the fan shroud, or backwards... They also used about 3' of extensions to get to the upper four bolts that hold the case to the engine block... Real easy other than that, they have it down to about 40 minutes for one to two guys. Remove the driveshaft, remove the transfercase, then the put the jack under it, pull out the x member, disconnect the electronics, remove the bell housing cover, manually turn the engine around to remove all 6 bolts holding the TC to the flexplate, and then disconnect the bolts holding it to the engine..
 
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Old May 12, 2008 | 07:21 PM
  #5  
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WOW wish i could this thning out in 40 mins. you say they jacked up the rear of the truck to level out the engine so is wouldnt fall into the fan shroud or backwards. What do you mean? In the manual I have they say to support the motor with a jack while the trans is out. Thanks Kris very helpful. Well i'm goin back under for some more fun!
 
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Old May 12, 2008 | 07:21 PM
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Kris,

I'd-a repped ya' if I didn't have to "spread-em around..."

Very comprehensive answer!

Pop
 
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Old May 12, 2008 | 07:58 PM
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I did this back in December installing my BTS. Need to remove the starter as well, but Kris hit the major parts. Also, on the t-case, use a rachet type wrench (12mm). I took me and a buddy about a hour and a half. Use a swivel type socket with a huge extension on the top bolts. Also, if you have the funds, change out your uppipes with bellowed pipes while you're in there. It won't get any easier to replace these while the tranny is out.

Here's some old notes:

> Remove Inspection plate
> Drain pan / TC
> Remove Starter
> Remove front / rear drive shaft from T-case / Differential
> Remove TC/Flywheel bolts
> Support Tranmission
> Remove crossmember
> Seperate Tcase from Transmission and remove (disconnect harness)
> Disconnect cooler lines/harness/linkage from transmission
> Remove tranny bolts to engine (lower transmission to get to
> the top ones)
> Remove transmission

I think that hits it pretty good.
 
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Old May 12, 2008 | 08:14 PM
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The only thing that doesn't need to be done is remove the starter, the rest of the list is good.
 
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Old May 12, 2008 | 08:31 PM
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My bad. That would have saved me 20 minutes or so. I thought it bolted into the bellhousing. I'm pretty sure it had to come out for one reason or another.
 
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Old May 12, 2008 | 08:31 PM
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[quote=Alpine6;6146981]I did this back in December installing my BTS. Need to remove the starter as well, but Kris hit the major parts. Also, on the t-case, use a rachet type wrench (12mm). I took me and a buddy about a hour and a half. Use a swivel type socket with a huge extension on the top bolts. Also, if you have the funds, change out your uppipes with bellowed pipes while you're in there. It won't get any easier to replace these while the tranny is out.quote]


Where does a guy get these bellowed up pipes? The way you talk they are pricey. I thought about putting in a bigger downpipe. is it worth it?
 
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Old May 12, 2008 | 09:05 PM
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I believe the starter bolts to the aluminum adapter between the block and the tranny, doesnt it?

 
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Old May 12, 2008 | 09:07 PM
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You can get bellowed pipes, quick, at your local international dealer. Or, buy them cheaper from some place like BlackWidowDiesel.com, and pay shipping, and wait a few days. Kinda sounds like you need your truck now though.

Here is a picture of what it looked like... Notice they strapped the front driveshaft, my exhaust is still in place, and from another view, you can easily get to the up pipes.
 
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Old May 12, 2008 | 10:25 PM
  #13  
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From: Indy
Kris,
Thanks for the help.you've gone above and beyond with the advice. Although I still have a question about why they jacked up the rear end of the truck to level the motor. What is this all about.

actually I'm tryin to get ahead of the game. The trans that I'm getting still has to be taken out of the truck its coming from. So I have a fair amount of time. But about those up pipe not sure I can afford them after I buy the trans and add ons for the trans.

Thanks again to all
 
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Old May 12, 2008 | 10:52 PM
  #14  
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If you didn't know, the engine is slightly cantered towards the rear. Basically the crankshaft should be inline with the driveshaft, and pinion of the rear axle. The straightest shot to the rear axle will make the smoothest power transfer. Next time your're under the hood, take note to notice it. The cummins are even worse yet, as the long engine is easy to see that it's sloping backwards. They jack the rear of the truck up one, to level the engine out so it doesnt take the fan and mash it into the shroud, and two, it's alot easier to get that big transmission out from under the truck. They also run it in on the jack, but lowered down some. Take it through all the gears up to 80mph or so, to run the air out of the system.
 
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Old May 13, 2008 | 07:22 AM
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Deisel newbie here, I did some searches for BWD bellowed up pipes.Could not find anything on the reasons for the swap.. Is there a problem with the stock set up? It is $300+. BlackWidowDiesel.com


Dan
 
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