Help with starting
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 213
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From: Port Coquitlam, BC Canada
Help with starting
So 1979 F-250 supercab, 400 CI 6.6 Litre, C6 automatic 2150 carb, I have been having trouble getting truck to start, will start but dies, I figure that may be carb flooding, anyway, the real mystery is that I turn the key and crank and crank, nothing until I release the key, then it actually kicks over, and I have had it do that a few times, replaced ignition switch, but did not cure it.
So why would the key returning back to run make engine kick over, and if I take the key from start to run myself, I can sometimes get it to kick over when turning key to the left, if I run it back and forth between start and run position it is like I am making contact, but backwards to how it should be.
Any ideas?
So why would the key returning back to run make engine kick over, and if I take the key from start to run myself, I can sometimes get it to kick over when turning key to the left, if I run it back and forth between start and run position it is like I am making contact, but backwards to how it should be.
Any ideas?
Senior User
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 273
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From: Laurel, MT
Have you checked the starter relay? It's just behind the battery on the inside passengers fender. It's round and has two posts - one goes to the + red battery cable. I replaced mine, and it was pretty inexpensive.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,398
Likes: 17
From: Hesperia, CA
If it is firing in the start position then the solenoid is working fine. When you hit the starter, or activate the solenoid, 12 volts is being directly fed to the Dura Spark module by the solenoid. If you have already replaced the ignition switch then the most obvious culprit is the resistive wire from the ignition switch to the coil. The module itself could be bad, but I would suspect the resistive wire first.
The quickest way to check this is to pull the small wire on the right side of the solenoid, looking at the solenoid from the front, and run it directly to 12 volts. (This is the wire that provides 12 volts to the coil when the solenoid is engaged) Then start the vehicle and see if it keeps running. If it does then you don't have voltage to the coil in the run position. It is more than likely that the resistor wire that is open.
The quickest way to check this is to pull the small wire on the right side of the solenoid, looking at the solenoid from the front, and run it directly to 12 volts. (This is the wire that provides 12 volts to the coil when the solenoid is engaged) Then start the vehicle and see if it keeps running. If it does then you don't have voltage to the coil in the run position. It is more than likely that the resistor wire that is open.
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 213
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From: Port Coquitlam, BC Canada
I did replace the original ignition module with a Kem parts brand, but that was about 8 years ago, I think it called for an E302 anyway, maybe it is going, I do have a couple I could try.
The problem too is that the truck sits year to year as it is a summer holiday truck for pulling a fifth wheel trailer, and the most it gets used is 6 months at the most and in fact has sat at least a year or so now.
Will have to try another module.
Thanks for the advice.
The problem too is that the truck sits year to year as it is a summer holiday truck for pulling a fifth wheel trailer, and the most it gets used is 6 months at the most and in fact has sat at least a year or so now.
Will have to try another module.
Thanks for the advice.
New User
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
It's in the distributor
We had the same problem with our truck not firing until you let off of the key. We replaced the ignition switch, the starter solenoid, and the ignition control module, all with no luck. Finally after some troubleshooting, we replaced the magnetic pickup in the distributor and now it works fine. Didn't think of it at first because the distributor wasn't that old. Try this out, I bet it will work. Good luck.
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 213
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From: Port Coquitlam, BC Canada
We had the same problem with our truck not firing until you let off of the key. We replaced the ignition switch, the starter solenoid, and the ignition control module, all with no luck. Finally after some troubleshooting, we replaced the magnetic pickup in the distributor and now it works fine. Didn't think of it at first because the distributor wasn't that old. Try this out, I bet it will work. Good luck.
It does sound as if you had my same issue, so will look also at the fact the distirbutor may have a worn shaft, that may cause it also.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,409
Likes: 1
From: Goliad, Texas
I was gonna say isn't that the starter soleniod?
mine wouldn't start too. replaced the soleniod and it fired right up. and yes a 80-86 soleniod will work; it's only just a little different and you can retro fit it. as long as you have the wires going to the right spot it will work.
mine wouldn't start too. replaced the soleniod and it fired right up. and yes a 80-86 soleniod will work; it's only just a little different and you can retro fit it. as long as you have the wires going to the right spot it will work.
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