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i would look around on autotrader a while if it was me. i found a lot of really good deals when i was looking around a few months ago. xlt, fully loaded, less than 175k miles, etc for around 8-9k. for comparisons sake, i ended up getting a regular cab, xl, with 175k miles that looks as good as that one for only 4300. no rust anywhere, no problems, just has one dent near the tailgate where he bumped his trailer backing up to it.
i regret paying what i did for mine. had i looked into this site before i bought my truck i would have shopped alot more. i probably would have gone out west or down south to find a rust free truck for cheaper than i paid for mine. just some input. dan
i probably would have gone out west or down south to find a rust free truck for cheaper than i paid for mine
Humm, it seems like every time I see a Rust free truck from the south or west there going for some big $$$ usually rust free + Low miles (100K) is about 14ish unless you can find a really good deal. Heck anything is possible!
SkylinePCG, I would shop around a bit if you're thinking about trading in. Find something you REALLY like then grab it! My .02
How about this, are the newer superduties that much (or even, any) better than the 95-97's? Ive had a some experience driving the things, but theyre ambulance chassied rigs, and Ive never had to get my hands dirty working on them.
We have a few old relics in the fleet that are 97's, still kicking around and as reliable as anything, but they couldnt be any slower. I dont know if its from being run 24/7 and having lots of different drivers treating it like a rental or what. Poor maintenance is unlikely, as the dept. has a PM program. Now the newer trucks, with 7.3 motor seem a lot faster (thirstier too). 6.0's so far thunder down the road (when they ARE on the road), but theyre also the most commonly put out for non-scheduled maintenance too.
How about this, are the newer superduties that much (or even, any) better than the 95-97's? We have a few old relics in the fleet that are 97's, still kicking around and as reliable as anything, but they couldnt be any slower.
Well, wouldn't say there "better" or "faster". All trucks require maintenance. With a few tweaks, you can have a OBS keeping up with SD's no problem. The SD's have an intercooler and 120cc split shot injectors. If you were to take an OBS, sick a set of stage 1's ($650 or DIY's about $450 with pre-machined intensifier pistons) and a A/R 1.00 exhaust housing ($180) good chip Chip ($350ish) and gauges (actually this should be done FIRST!!!) ($300ish) you'd have a peppy little truck that would be fun to drive and get good mileage to!
Originally Posted by SkylinePCG
6.0's so far thunder down the road (when they ARE on the road), but theyre also the most commonly put out for non-scheduled maintenance too.
I actually just saw an OBS powerstroke for sale today...
177K miles, good looking, all white,
the only problem i saw was the 20 part of the 40-20-40 seat was missing. had been replaced with a plastic center console from autozone or whereever. looked like crap.
They were only asking $6k.
Truck started and ran great, no dust on the turbo, etc.
my point is shop around more. or buy robb's.
im a little confused here. ive seen a few posts about people saying check for dust on the turbo and not sure what they are talking about. i know a few people with 6.0's that their turbo was clogged up with soot and wouldnt spool up. they ran a few tanks of cetane booster through it and it cleared up and ran fine. is this what the dust on the turbo is referring to? if so, wouldnt it be "in" the turbo and not "on" it? and wouldnt you have to pull the turbo to check that? not too many dealers would be happy if i showed up with my tools wanting to tear down their engine lol.
im a little confused here. ive seen a few posts about people saying check for dust on the turbo and not sure what they are talking about. i know a few people with 6.0's that their turbo was clogged up with soot and wouldnt spool up. they ran a few tanks of cetane booster through it and it cleared up and ran fine. is this what the dust on the turbo is referring to? if so, wouldnt it be "in" the turbo and not "on" it? and wouldnt you have to pull the turbo to check that? not too many dealers would be happy if i showed up with my tools wanting to tear down their engine lol.
A "Dusted" turbo is one that sand etc... has leaked past the air filter and "sandblasted" the compressor wheel making it very warn. Stand by and I'll post a pic of what a dusted compressor wheel looks like
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.