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Front Wheel Bearing Question ?

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Old May 5, 2008 | 11:53 PM
  #1  
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From: Aurora, Iliinois
Question Front Wheel Bearing Question ?

My 2000 F-250 4x4 7.3 is making a slight bump/clunk sound whenever I hit a bump. I replaced the upper and lower ball joints about 50k miles ago and they are still tight. When I hit about 75 mph or so there is a slight vibration, but I just had all the wheels balanced. I had the rotors turned a couple weeks ago and when I had it the wheels off I noticed that there are seals on the outer axel tubes and that they all seem to be "out" from where they are supposed to be and hanging kinda loose. Another thing I noticed is that the passenger side axelshaft still moves when the wheel is spun, even with the lockout in the "auto" position when the wheel should spin free...If you hold the axelshaft still with your hand, the wheel will spin though.

Anyone have any ideas ?

Thanks !

Scott
 
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Old May 6, 2008 | 02:11 PM
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From: Aurora, Iliinois
p.s. the truck has 100,000 miles on it ;-)
 
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Old May 6, 2008 | 11:57 PM
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Check the bushings in the sway-bar links.

Common clunk source.

Those plastic rings that you call seals, just loose on the outer shafts, that's common, too. Don't worry about them at all unless they bother you. Then, just cut them off.

Pop
 
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Old May 7, 2008 | 06:55 AM
  #4  
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Thanks for the advice , I'll give the sway-bar bushings a look today. What exactly are those plastic rings supposed to do ? Upon closer investigation, I noticed that there are actually 4 of them...2 on the ends of the axel tubes and 2 are near the outer axel shafts ? Are they supposed to keep moisture out of somewhere ?

Thanks again !

Scott
 
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Old May 7, 2008 | 09:22 AM
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From: Montana
I just replaced my sway bar link bushings, this last weekend. The truck was doing the same "clunking" noise you've described. Obviously, a press is INCREDIBLY handy at getting the old ones out. Not sure if you've ever replaced them before, so please pardon me if this sounds over-simplified. Once the two bolts are out (15mm and 18mm, if I remember correctly), use a socket on the press that is a tad smaller than the "inner cylinder" of the old bushing. I was told to get one that is just smaller than the inside diameter of the link arm.....not good. Of course, place the link arm between a couple of "somethings" so the old one can come out the bottom. A couple/three pops later and they're out.

I used THESE for the replacement. I believe this is the correct set for your truck, as well....but please make sure. The instructions that come with them are horrible - as far as which go where and how they're installed. Basically, the set comes with 8 halves of 2 types of bushings - 4 of them for the bottom links, and 4 for the top links. The 4 with the "two-tier" profile are for the bottom/deeper link, and the others obviously for the top. The outer diameter of each set rests up agains the outside of the link. I was trying to make it harder than it actually was by thinking the outside diameter had to be pressed into the link cylinder....not the case.

Again, sorry if this seems extremely basic.



-Mike
 

Last edited by mykldn; May 7, 2008 at 09:23 AM. Reason: spelling
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