Front disc brake questions
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Front disc brake questions
In my research I found that I need to use 73-79 trucks as donors for my front disc brake upgrade on the '66. I went today and looked around in the u-auto-pull-it and found a '73, '74, and '76 but all 3 of these trucks had manual disc and not power disc. Was the power brakes an option back then?
Out of the three I decided the '76 was in the best condition. Here is my plan and tell me if this sounds like the best route. Going to get the spindles, calipers, brake proportioning block, and the steering linkage from the '76. The rotors are not good to reuse, so I will buy new rotors, bearings, and hoses. Trade the calipers in on rebuilt units and I guess buy a new booster/master cylinder assembly to match. I will also need the bracket to mount the booster and the correct length rod. I know dad changed the king pins in the '66 at one time but I do not know if they are still in good shape, will determine if they need replacing when I get it torn apart. Going to replace the radius arm bushings and Ibeam pivot bushings at this time also. What else am I missing or need to know to complete this? Thanks!
Out of the three I decided the '76 was in the best condition. Here is my plan and tell me if this sounds like the best route. Going to get the spindles, calipers, brake proportioning block, and the steering linkage from the '76. The rotors are not good to reuse, so I will buy new rotors, bearings, and hoses. Trade the calipers in on rebuilt units and I guess buy a new booster/master cylinder assembly to match. I will also need the bracket to mount the booster and the correct length rod. I know dad changed the king pins in the '66 at one time but I do not know if they are still in good shape, will determine if they need replacing when I get it torn apart. Going to replace the radius arm bushings and Ibeam pivot bushings at this time also. What else am I missing or need to know to complete this? Thanks!
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: East Helena MT
Generally speaking it is easier to take the whole I-beam with spindles rather than try and separate them. Just a though, pull two bolts and the whole thing comes out.
Make sure you get the bracket the proportioning valve bolts to; it will save you some fab time on making a new one.
You have two choices for a brake light, you can install your factory 66 sensor in line with a brake line, that will require a T and some fittings, or you can use the contact sensor out of your donor truck and make a bracket to use inside the cab of your pickup. I have some pictures in my gallery of the bracket I made to use the contact sensor in my truck.
Boosters to my knowledge were optional up to a point and then they were standard equipment.
As long as you have your I-beams out it might be a good time to change the axle pivot bushings and radius arm bushings. Just a thought other wise it sounds like a good plan, good choice on replacing the rotors, calipers, pads and hoses. That really is a must unless your donor truck had pretty new stuff. My thought is it is safer, and as long as you are there and apart, that is the time to install new parts. Let us know how your project goes.
Jeff
Make sure you get the bracket the proportioning valve bolts to; it will save you some fab time on making a new one.
You have two choices for a brake light, you can install your factory 66 sensor in line with a brake line, that will require a T and some fittings, or you can use the contact sensor out of your donor truck and make a bracket to use inside the cab of your pickup. I have some pictures in my gallery of the bracket I made to use the contact sensor in my truck.
Boosters to my knowledge were optional up to a point and then they were standard equipment.
As long as you have your I-beams out it might be a good time to change the axle pivot bushings and radius arm bushings. Just a thought other wise it sounds like a good plan, good choice on replacing the rotors, calipers, pads and hoses. That really is a must unless your donor truck had pretty new stuff. My thought is it is safer, and as long as you are there and apart, that is the time to install new parts. Let us know how your project goes.
Jeff
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
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From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
I agree with Jeff about keeping it simple. I think the pick and pull is a more expensive method of getting the parts. It is my belief that buying your donor and selling parts that you don't use can put you way out front on cost. My donor parts were free because I sold for more that I bought.
By buying my donor I not only got power disc brakes, I got the power steering, the steering column, the pump and lines, the C6 tranny, the 2 spd wiper motor, that I used on my truck.
Yes there were power disc brakes on those year model trucks. You can live in an area where the original owners didn't like power brakes and didn't buy the option.
You certainly want to use some of the parts as cores, but some can work as is for a while.
Make good choices.
John
By buying my donor I not only got power disc brakes, I got the power steering, the steering column, the pump and lines, the C6 tranny, the 2 spd wiper motor, that I used on my truck.
Yes there were power disc brakes on those year model trucks. You can live in an area where the original owners didn't like power brakes and didn't buy the option.
You certainly want to use some of the parts as cores, but some can work as is for a while.
Make good choices.
John
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,305
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From: Boulder Creek, Ca
I also used the 76 donor for my 65 F100. Agree with bigblock, take the donor I beams, and all the other items you described, and yes include the MC bracket, pitman arm,drag link, and tie rods. Purchased new MC at local Napa parts supplier for around $45, this was few yrs. back. I also used the T fitting and kept pressure brake switch, understand the elect switch is preferred and safer, I never had a problem. Pic N Pull had a half price day and I took couple donor booters, still running strong and have a back up. Posting the standard P/S upgrade site in event have not seen it as yet.
f100discs
f100discs
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,518
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From: Spokane, WA
I have parted out a '73 F100 and currently a '74 F100 that had power disc brakes. I still have one booster and bracket from the '74. I also have a booster and bracket from a '68 F100 Ranger. My cam doesn't make much vacuum anyway so I went manual disc on my '66. I used '73 spindles on AIM I beams. I agree with the earlier post, don't mess with the king pins, just take the hole I-beam and bolt it into yours unless your donor trucks king pins are bad.
Elder User
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 581
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From: Montana
i agree with the rest of the guys, if you can find a donor go that way. i bet i made 50 trips out to the donor looking at athe way it was set up and robbing a ton of little things as well . things you wont have access to if you buy it a piece at a time . i did my whole swap in two days. i later took it apart cleaned it and painted it but i was able to get rid of the donor quickly . sold the doors hood and fenders for almost twice what i paid for the whole truck. Dutch
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Freshman User
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Got the brakes cleaned up to disassemble. The king pins/bushings are bad. I plan to keep the original ibeams and radius arms.
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Since all of the 73-79 donors I have found so far have non-power front disc setups, I have been searching for a complete booster/master cylinder/bracket/rod combo. I would like to know what you guys think of this one:
Power brakes FORD TRUCKS,1957,THRU 1972, F100,F250
this setup is from MBM brake components.
Power brakes FORD TRUCKS,1957,THRU 1972, F100,F250
this setup is from MBM brake components.
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Elder User
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: East Helena MT
You might get lucky but here is the thing with king pins. More than likely they will not come out with beating on them with a hammer. Mine did not, and I had to remove the whole I-beam, take it down to a shop I call on and use there press to get them out. With that being said, that is why most people just swap out the whole I-beam. Two bolts and it is out of there, then just bolt up the I-beam from a donor. It saves a lot of time from pressing the parts out. It is just a thought, you can do your project which ever way works best for you.
Jeff
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2007
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From my understanding the spindles off the 76 wont bolt up to a 66. They changed the size of the kingpin in 75. You might want to get the complete I beams. I used a 76 donor and swapt the whole i beams over it was very easy this way.
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Freshman User
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Thanks guy for all the great info!
What do you think of using this booster/master combo:
Power brakes FORD TRUCKS,1957,THRU 1972, F100,F250
Thanks
What do you think of using this booster/master combo:
Power brakes FORD TRUCKS,1957,THRU 1972, F100,F250
Thanks