I've had a valley leak that I am unable to locate. I thought I'd pull the turbo and do the following:
1)WW
2)Pedestal o-rings
3)HPOP o-rings
4)CCV mod

Anything else I should do while I'm in there? The wife is already going to kill me, so big ticket items are out of the question.

 

Not to be a smarty, but make sure to fix the darn leak. Clean it out good and see where it is coming from.

 

LOTS of places for leaks make sure it is from turbo area before doing this work and not fixing your leak.

 

That's the whole problem, I can't tell where it's coming from. I thought pedestal o-rings and HPOP o-rings were the only candidates. What else should I be looking for?

 

i could be leaking around the EBPV arm in the peistal..its tuff to look in there but can be done..look and see if the arm is dripping oil..you can fix it with this kit 1994-2003 7.3L Turbo Pedestal Rebuild Kit

 

Look for an area that is washed clean, and that usually is the source of your leak.

 

How bad is the leak? Have you checked your boots to make sure their tight? If you lean down with a flashlight you can see the EBPV & rod to see if that's the source.



Here's what mine looked like before I started cleaning. This was from a loose boot that was apparently causing my leak.

 

That's what everything in and around the valley looks like, including the boots. Time for another dose of simple green.

 

I know money is a issue, but if i was going to all that trouble i would do the EBV and pedestal change. Get rid of that oil leaking pedestal arm!! JMOP

 

If oil is in the front of the valley, it is leaking in the front. Oil will not leak to the front from the turbo pedestal area. Gravity along with the cant of the engine tell us this. The only exception to this is nose down parking in San Francisco or 3+ G stopping. The fan has a way of blowing fluids to the back.

Speaking of leaks up front, have you found your leak Justin?

 

Assuming you brought it to Ford and had them hook their scanner to it and found that the EBPV is leaking, that kit might or might not work.

When mine leaked, we tried the kit and it didn't do much. Why? Because they replaced the plunger which WASN'T the problem. Somehow the bore got scored and it leaked. See the pics abve. Dirt could have gotten there and scored the bore. Well, we tried a rebuilt pedestal. Didn't work. Had to R&R it again. Why? Because that one had a scored bore and the rebuild company changed the plunger gaskets. One mechanic had to replace it 3 times before he found a pedestal that didn't leak

 

Should I just buy a new pedestal w/o the EBPV? What would be the advantages? I'm in New Mexico so I'd have to garage it w/ block heater in the winter.

 

EBPV has nothing to do with cold starts...it just helps warm the truck up faster after it does start..mine has been used as an exhaust brake for 2 years now..i have never used it for warm ups..not sure what aklim is talking about..i know if its old..the bore gets warn out.but on a new one?? bad parts maybe?? when my pedistal leaked there.. i got the rebuild kit and there has been no leaks there for 2 years now..if you delete it..you will need to get a deleted EBPV exhaust houseing..or wire tie the EBPV open...

 

I live in the mountian's of Va. It gets cold here, you don't need that warm up butter fly, get rid of that exhaust choking junk, and get the other pedestal, you have it apart no better time than now.

 

Well that was my whole point. Rather than sitting forever waiting for the truck to warm up it does help warm it faster. I'd sit for half an hour if I didn't garage it I bet. Even with the heater. It'd breathe better yah? Maybe reduce some of this cloud I leave behind me and get more usable power? So I'd need to replace the pedestal AND the housing? How much (ballpark) are we talkin' here? Thanks!!