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I've been having trouble and was diagnosing it today, when sparks came from my Ford remote start system. Right after the sparks, I tried the key to start the motor, no good, I jumped the connections at the remote start brain and I was able to start it. Then when I closed the door, the door chime kicked in. I unplug the main harness from the remote brain, it's no longer chiming.
My brain and fob look like this
I'd like to replace it with the same unit so I don't have to rewire it. Can anyone help me ID this unit or find part numbers? The box has a sticker with 4/11/01 printed on it, so I am guessing that was the date of manufacture.
I found a blown fuse the installers hide from me and I can now start my truck with the key. However, I've gone over every fuse and connection and the remote start hasn't started working again. It hasn't started by remote in several months, the module clicks when I hold down the start button to begin the remote start process, then clicks again a second later and about 6 seconds after that, the cluster shuts down and it waits a couple of seconds before repeating that process. I can feel relays clicking in the module, but it's not doing anything.
These were made by Code Alarm and branded for Ford, GM ,and Subaru , I believe Code Alarm was bought out by someone else though , I have several of these units that I removed from vehicles for the car dealers , cars turned in without remotes etc ,they are identical in wiring diagrams on the back , but all have different labels on the front , Craig.
This is an old generation, mine appears to be before the code alarm switch over. At least it looks nothing like the code alarms in appearance and wiring. I have a single main harness and then ports for the shock sensor (4 small wires) and a port for a PATs bypass.
What is the difference in what "starter Interrupt" and "Crank output"? I just replaced the relay that connects to the Crank output lead. I have a diode that is linking the hood trigger and white crank wire from the other side of the brain. I have a full 13v at the fused side of the relay, but the relay isn't tripping. It appears that the diode is in place to feed ground from the white wire to hood trigger, so the hood switch should pretty much have nothing to do with it.
The code alarm units i have look like the one you have pictured , they are older date codes 92-95 ,they probably changed the plugs , these dont have any pats loop provision, the diagram you have posted brings up a crown vic picture. Also call the tech number ,they can at least get you the progamming directions.