Head Gasket
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Head Gasket
I have an 87 250 with the 6.9L and a 4 speed, and a blown head gasket. How hard is it to change these, I have heard that they are actually quite involved. I have never done one before and was hopin someone would have some insight about it for a rookie. thanks in advance
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Manitoba
Google........ Mel's head gasket article .....you should get a good article on doing heads. I would advise you consider removing the engine from the truck to do it, unless you like to be like a dog around a football lifting items.
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Joined: Jan 2008
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From: portsmouth n.h.
easiest job ive ever done on a 6.9 lots of weight involved those heads weigh at least 95 pounds each. make sure the heads arent warped, you can check this with a feeler guage(im not sure what thickness to use im sure if you search around youll find it) and a straight edge, make sure its straight though. Cleanliness is key as well, make sure the deck and heads are clean, and i mean clean, if you blew the gasket, get the head checked buy a machine shop, and buy new bolts. The whole project cost me just under 400 bucks but i did both, if you have it apart that far do both dont be lazy. just make sure as well that the push rods go back in the same hole they came out of, not upside down, be organized, and clean and you will have absoloutly no problems, very simple engine to maintain and repair, remember those heads are HEAVY, and help that you need just reply.
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Idon't know how bad the damage is because we bought the truck like that, it will start and run fine for all of 2.5 minutes then it starts to overheat, and once it heats up and you shut it off it won't even turn over till it cools off
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From: portsmouth n.h.
head gasket
Best thing to do in this case is dismantle the engine (when it is cold) take the heads to a machine shop and have them checked, if they are slightly warped they will have to plane them. Some shops will charge by the hour, or by the job. it can cost around 200 bucks if he can fix it. check the deck (where the head bolts to) and make sure there is no cracks, high or low spots, you can check this with the guage and ruler i told you about. make sure you get everything off there, all the old gasket, and oil. clean out the cylinder walls, clean clean. check for cracks, small pin holes, rust, and worn marks. If you find any cracks in the cylinder walls, throw everything in the bed and call a wrecker.(junk) If all is well before you begin to reassemble, remember to purchase NEW head bolts, you blew a head gasket which means a bolt stretched just enough to bypass compression, dont be a cheapo, the higher the tensile strength, the tougher they are, if you decide to go turbo someday. buy new bolts. and ,make sure everything goes back the way it came off. this motor will not lose time, as long as you dont rotate the injector pump shaft when it is out everything will bo back semi perfectly.
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So basically I need to pull the motor, completly take it apart to the block and have it checked. Would I need to have the block dipped and Magnafluxed? And for Headbolts does ARP make a kit or have something that will work? Will Head Studs work? Is it possible to lower the compression to compensate for a turbo one day? or should I just leave the CR alone and run the Sidewinder or another setup?
Like I said I know gas motors not Diesels and this is gonna be my first rebuild
Like I said I know gas motors not Diesels and this is gonna be my first rebuild
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Manitoba
Before jumping into the river check the depth.........
Are you positive it "IS" a head gasket....... could it be JUST a thermostat. If the wrong one was installed it could cause overheating too.
Check and ensure there is NOT an air lock in the heads/upper coolant area..... remove the water pump inlet hose from the heater. Keep the heater hose up above the block. If you have extra heater hose slide a foot (12") over the water pump inlet. Try filling the hose with water/coolant see how much it takes.... report back.
One other important point.......ensure there is a spring inside the lower coolant hose...... just feel for it. If you can squeeze the hose flat all the way along.......that too will cause overheating ASAP.
Are you positive it "IS" a head gasket....... could it be JUST a thermostat. If the wrong one was installed it could cause overheating too.
Check and ensure there is NOT an air lock in the heads/upper coolant area..... remove the water pump inlet hose from the heater. Keep the heater hose up above the block. If you have extra heater hose slide a foot (12") over the water pump inlet. Try filling the hose with water/coolant see how much it takes.... report back.
One other important point.......ensure there is a spring inside the lower coolant hose...... just feel for it. If you can squeeze the hose flat all the way along.......that too will cause overheating ASAP.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Sweet Home, OR
My opinion: if you have to pull it out put the stud kit in it and THE BEST head gaskets you can buy (someone on here can probably give you an opinion on gaskets).
If you do you probably won't have to do it again. Also, you sound young and already thinking TURBO in that case I think it's a no-brainer--head-studs!+
You have a good attitude: "I don't know diesels", people who THINK they know more than they actually do make a lot of mistakes. You are doing your research first, SMART MOVE! I've only been on this site for a month or two and I've learned so much about IDIs from these guys it still amazes me. It took me A LOT longer to learn this much about Cummins.
Another thing, the guys on here ARE COOL but don't go to the "Powerstroke site" and post anything with that USER NAME! I made that mistake one time and I got loaded up with sooo much B.S. by SOME of those guys it was rediculous. Stick with these motors and these guys and they won't steer you wrong!!!!
If you do you probably won't have to do it again. Also, you sound young and already thinking TURBO in that case I think it's a no-brainer--head-studs!+
You have a good attitude: "I don't know diesels", people who THINK they know more than they actually do make a lot of mistakes. You are doing your research first, SMART MOVE! I've only been on this site for a month or two and I've learned so much about IDIs from these guys it still amazes me. It took me A LOT longer to learn this much about Cummins.
Another thing, the guys on here ARE COOL but don't go to the "Powerstroke site" and post anything with that USER NAME! I made that mistake one time and I got loaded up with sooo much B.S. by SOME of those guys it was rediculous. Stick with these motors and these guys and they won't steer you wrong!!!!
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I'll check the Therm what temp should I get?
Check and ensure there is NOT an air lock in the heads/upper coolant area..... remove the water pump inlet hose from the heater. Keep the heater hose up above the block. If you have extra heater hose slide a foot (12") over the water pump inlet. Try filling the hose with water/coolant see how much it takes.... report back.
One other important point.......ensure there is a spring inside the lower coolant hose...... just feel for it. If you can squeeze the hose flat all the way along.......that too will cause overheating ASAP.
One other important point.......ensure there is a spring inside the lower coolant hose...... just feel for it. If you can squeeze the hose flat all the way along.......that too will cause overheating ASAP.
What do you mean by Airlock?
BTW Dodge/Cummins I'm only 18 as of last month, I've never done Diesel but I have a 1970 Chevelle that I rebuilt. Now I need something that I can drive without worrying about all the time
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'70 Chevelle? Way cool -- even for an old Ford guy.
The dealership tried stop-leak? I wouldn't exactly take their word as gospel.
Are you loosing any coolant and/or is the oil milky instead of black? do you see any bubbles in the radiator or coolant recovery tank while it's running?
Air lock basically mean an air bubble that causes the engine to overheat before it's able to work its way out to the radiator. There is a bypass in the thermostat housing that might be blocked.
You need to drain several gallons of coolant first to remove the thermostat. Hopefully someone will chime in soon with the procedure. The important thing is to use the correct thermostat, not the one they try to sell you at the local parts store.
The dealership tried stop-leak? I wouldn't exactly take their word as gospel.
Are you loosing any coolant and/or is the oil milky instead of black? do you see any bubbles in the radiator or coolant recovery tank while it's running?
Air lock basically mean an air bubble that causes the engine to overheat before it's able to work its way out to the radiator. There is a bypass in the thermostat housing that might be blocked.
You need to drain several gallons of coolant first to remove the thermostat. Hopefully someone will chime in soon with the procedure. The important thing is to use the correct thermostat, not the one they try to sell you at the local parts store.
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Yup its my First Love...
If I do have an Airlock How would I get rid of it? WOuld I have to drain the Coolant and then refill it? I checked the Coolant and didn't see any bubbles but I'll check again. I just checked the oil and it looks like somenoe smeared mayo on the dipstick....
If I do have an Airlock How would I get rid of it? WOuld I have to drain the Coolant and then refill it? I checked the Coolant and didn't see any bubbles but I'll check again. I just checked the oil and it looks like somenoe smeared mayo on the dipstick....
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From: Guymon
Theres also the oil cooler on the drivers side of the engine that can leak coolant into the oil. Not sure on the odds of it being that but I thougt i might bring it up and someone else can add to it.