i have a 94 idi turbo and i was having battery issues so i took the batteries out and had them tested and had to buy a new one so i went and put them back in and still had starting issues i had to run jumper cables from one battery to the other and barely got it to start.i also have a set of subs in my truck and they started pulsing after i had pulled the key out then stopped and then started again after 30 seconds or so.so then i just unhooked the batteries.but when i was driving there was a signifigant loss of power and the tranny(automatic) shifted prematurely.any help or ideas would be great.thanks!!!!!p.s. i kinda figure the shifting was caused from crappy batteries and the brain is relearning the tranny bein its an e4od,but that may be wrong too

 

Sounds like your charging system isn't working right. Have you checked your voltage while its running? Should be like 13.5 volts to 14.5ish. If its less than 13 volts, its not charging right. also check your battery connections and alternator connections even at the back of the alternator. Actually I had my alternator wire brake off my alternator on mine. anyway, Loss, coroded or bad cables and connections will give you lots of trouble with starting and charging.

Also, if you do get a low reading at the batteries with your volt meter, check the voltage at the back of the alternator and see what it is. If its good then check the cable from the alterntor to the battery (i think its black wire with an orange stripe) and may go to the starter relay on the right fender then to the battery.

Just some input but I would check the voltage while its running before I did anything else. Good luck

 

Rule of thumb is replace both batteries at the same time....... minimum 850CCA each.
Since you have an old and a new battery one may be affecting the other.......

 

ok well i went to try to get it fired up and it wouldnt turn over so i tried jumping it and it did very little good so now its not starting at all.i did notice the pos cable on the pass side looked like the coating was wore off of it but the wires looked fine with no corrosion and didnt appear to be grounding out. i just dont want to spend the 100 bucks for a new cable and another 100 for another battery.this is so friggin frustrating.i just wish i could get it to start.should i take off the alternator and have it tested?

 

When you tried to jump start the truck, how long did you leave the jumper cables on? I would let them charge with the jumper car running for like 10-20 minuits or so and also what kind of jumper cables do you use. I use the $5 set at walmart and jump started my truck a few times with them but you have to be patient with the cheap ones. Hook them up, let them charge then go from there. Then check your voltage and see if its charging.

It wouldn't be a bad idea to pull the alternaor and have it checked as long as whoever is checking it knows what they are doing. My brothers 2006 dodge was misdiagnosed at autozone so its easy to do expecially if they really want to make a sell.

If you can't get it to jumps start even while letting it sit and charge, then Im in on what PLC7.3 said. The one battery you did not change could be loading down the system if its bad. I would put the new battery on the passenger side, unhook the other battery and try to start it with a jump. Then check your voltage to see if its charging corectly while its running. Yes, if the new battery is good and you have good connections, it should start on 1 battery expecially with a jump, mine did all summer long but now I bought 2 brand new batteries at oriles (I think they were super starts) and now it busts off quicker then ever.

If you lived near here I would just run over and help. anyway, just get your charging volts and post your results. Just stick with it and good luck.

 

ok so i charged the batteries on a charger and put them both back in and went to try and start the truck and it just cranks really slow.im wondering if its starter or starter solenoid.any ideas on how to get the goofy thing started?this is the most frustrating issue i have had with this truck no problem for two years and now its stumping me.it couldnt be vapor locked or something could it?

 

the connection down at the starter can get corroded too...

 

ok i believe i figured it out.i went and pulled the starter out and took it two different places to have it tested and both places couldnt even get the starter to engage.and it was trying to pull a huge amount of amperage so i am gonna take a shot in the dark and say the starter is toast especially bein the post that runs from the solenoid to the starter is way out of wack from what i assume would be from getting really hot from the starter dragging

 

Just a FYI post, cranking on the starter with low batteries weather they are weak or bad can fry a starter. When you get the new starter, make sure your charging system is ok along with battery connections. Low voltage to the starter will kill a starter and they will overheat quickly if cranked on long enough. It is possible that it got fried while trying to start it with low batteries so when you get it started I would still check your charging voltage.

From your first post it sounded like your voltage was dying because you said that the transmission was not shifting good and your amp was going nuts. On my 95 k1500 chevy, my alternator exciter wire came off and quit charging. I noticed it started shifing very hard then would only use a coupple gears. I know its a chevy but they are both auto tranys controled by a tcm and both will shift hard when they do not get the required voltage. Thats why I keep leaning on the charging system. Well, Good Luck!!!

 

i really appreciate you help mega cab.thanks

 

been meaning to let everyone know the outcome of the conclusion of the problem the starter was shot i took it out and had it tested and napa schucks and autozone couldnt even get it to move.so i ended up buying a brand new starter off ebay for $81 and all my starting problems stopped.thanks for everyones input on this post