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I have a 94' F150 XLT 5.8 auto. When I first start it the engine runs great at fast idle. When fast idle is done it spits and spudders almost stalling. Only for a couple minutes then the idle rises back up and returns to normal. It does have a little stumble all the time but nothing major. This happens almost everytime I start it, warm or cold. It seems to be getting worse. I scanned it and it came up with code 33. I've read alot of the info on code 33 an need to get a vaccuum gauge to do some tests. All the posts I have read have poor running when warm. The only thing I have tested was the ohms on the EVR and that was within specs. I also replaced plugs, wires, rotor, cap and fuel filter.
Code 33 is the EGR not opening, and stumbling is often the result of a vacuum leak, so I'd be looking for a broken or cracked vacuum line on the EGR system.
It looks like the EGR vaccuum solinoid is leaking. I can hook up a vac pump on the input side and plug the output and it won't pump up. I ordered on and will pick it up tomorrow.
Replaced the EVp and still no change. I checked for vac leaks with a vac pump and no leaks. I think it is a stupid wiring problem but not sure were to start.
Well I haven't driven the truck to much but have noticed the problem happens more when it rains.. If it is warm for a few days it runs normal but if it is moist out it runs great the first few seconds when it is on high idle then starts bogging and missing, like it is running on 4 cylinders. Then after about 1 minute it starts running normal. I think I will just sell this thing. Not sure what the hell is the problem.
Put it in a garage at night with the lights off or just outside if you live in the country and have no street lights. Start up the motor and rev it a bit, if you see a lightshow from the plug wires they need to be replaced, carefully route them to minimize contact and rubbing on metal bits, and try to keep 7 & 8 seperated.
P.S. You probably still have an EGR problem, possibly a stuck or leaking valve.
Well EGR didn't do anything. But I did find the problem. It was the MAP sensor. I went to the wreckers and grabbed a bunch of sensors. That was the one that fixed it. It never did throw a code on it. Stupid thing. Anyways it is running great now and next is ball joints and a rear seal.
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