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Allrighteee FTE know it alls. Here's the deal. Many of you have posted during my recent truck purchase of the 2003 F350 CC LWB, 4x4. Yes, during the 600 miles I have driven it in the past two days since purchase its been enjoyable and quite a bit different ride than my 07 F150 CC. (Good to be back in a Super Duty after the F150 stint, its really the only way to look "down" on others at redlights.)
This truck has a Volant Cold air intake and what appears (after my own FTE research) to be a half azzed zoodad mod. The zoodad mod on my truck only has three 1" diameter intake holes feeding the Volant.
First mods for me are longevity based decisions. I want to do the CCV then address the 4R100 transmission defects. I also want to put a compression brake on it from BD or Pacbrake since I tow construction equipment
Questions are as follows:
During my research on the zoodad it appears that the intake holes on my truck need to be larger. Much larger? FWIW I don't think I can pull off Tenn01PSD350's (aka Mike) massive zoodad bird bath looking modification, but should I make them larger?
What's the best mods to improve the 4R100 life? New larger pan? New accumuator? The Ford dealer flushed it during routine maintenance (less than 45 days ago) and to certify it under Ford CPO program. What else?
Any issues with Diff. life? I assume that I should check the diff fluid and make sure its synthetic for heavy towing? Does the diff cover/reservoir need to be larger?
The 7.3 takes some getting used to with the 4spd. My 6.0 with torqshift always seemed ready and in the right gear (well, when it was new and worked). There are times when I feel like I've got to get on it to make this thing move (also has something to do with larger 285 70R17 tires too).
Then there is the whole F150 mindset I need to unlearn after a year where it was always downshifting and always revving when going up any incline. The 7.3 at times seems to loaf and "ahem" diesel.....
Be careful not to lug your truck. Get some gauges. That "whoseyerdad" was a joke as wee all know. I haven't even done the Zoodad.
Put a BTS VB in or install a Transgo shift kit. It is pretty easy despite the instructions once you figure out what needs doing. I may be posting an install how to on this in the near future as I have some pics of that which is why mine took so long.
Your diff fluid should be synthetic, but the only way to know is drain, clean, and refill with good stuff.
Yeah, when I was researching the Zoodad and saw the whoseyerdad I could not stop chuckling to myself. My wife just sits and shakes her head at times when I'm on FTE.
Not sure what is meant by "be careful not to lug your truck" but when I said "diesel" I meant that it just seemed to chug up the incline at the same speed w/o much throttle input. I went up a long gradual incline today on 33 (from Maynardville back to Knoxville for you East TN members) and the transmission never downshifted at 50-60+ MPH. I am now used to the speed dropping on the F150 at the slightest incline and the truck downshifting to maintain speed on the same run. This truck almost never downshifts and I know that is due to torque profile from my previous diesel days but it just seems odd now.
Not sure what is meant by "be careful not to lug your truck" but when I said "diesel" I meant that it just seemed to chug up the incline at the same speed w/o much throttle input. I went up a long gradual incline today on 33 (from Maynardville back to Knoxville for you East TN members) and the transmission never downshifted at 50-60+ MPH. I am now used to the speed dropping on the F150 at the slightest incline and the truck downshifting to maintain speed on the same run. This truck almost never downshifts and I know that is due to torque profile from my previous diesel days but it just seems odd now.
When you lug the truck your egts will go way up. That is why you need a pyro. You also need a boost gauge to know what is normal for your engine, that way when you get some sort of decline you can easily see it on the gauge and know that it is usually boost related. But not always, as lack of fuel will provide no boost too.
I am now used to the speed dropping on the F150 at the slightest incline and the truck downshifting to maintain speed on the same run. This truck almost never downshifts and I know that is due to torque profile from my previous diesel days but it just seems odd now.
I know what you mean here,I can pull hills with 10k lbs without downshifting where my sons f-150 will downshift empty
new valve body (BTS, BD Power, Factory Tech Gregg Evans are the options)
new larger pan (Mag Hytec, BD Power)
bypass mod line
transmission flush since its already torn down
then an exhaust brake and gauges.
How long should it take to do the valve body, pan, bypass line and transmission flush? While I am under there I may just put in a Fumoto drain valve....