front disk brakes locking up. help please.
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More Turbo
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 683
Likes: 6
From: North Georgia
front disk brakes locking up. help please.
its a 86 f-150 5.0 aod tranny. I was driving in some stop and go traffic for a hour or so and the truck started pulling to the left and right and then the right front tried to locked up for a few miles. I resorted to just using the emergency brakes for several miles and it freed up. I let it cool down and it went back to normal. What I want to know is what is the best way to correct this just replace everything from the steel lines to the hub or what do some of you mechanics recomend. I have been told the rubber brake lines can break down on the inside and pieces can act as a check valve and let fluid in the caliper but not let it out. what do you guys think.
Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,658
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From: Out of here
If your truck is that old it's probably time to replace both any way. I would never just change one side and not the other.
I would also do the rubber brake lines too. Only bad thing is that once you touch one thing, everything else ends up being replaced too. It's difficult to get new rubber lines on without destroying the metal brake lines too.
Most of the time, I end up changing everything from the proportioning valve out to the pads. At least you will know that it is safe and you'll never have to worry about it again.
The parts aren't expensive but it takes a little time to do.
I would also do the rubber brake lines too. Only bad thing is that once you touch one thing, everything else ends up being replaced too. It's difficult to get new rubber lines on without destroying the metal brake lines too.
Most of the time, I end up changing everything from the proportioning valve out to the pads. At least you will know that it is safe and you'll never have to worry about it again.
The parts aren't expensive but it takes a little time to do.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 9,176
Likes: 4
From: Western Central NV
If it was a power booster the brakes when you touch them would suck down. I'm in agreement with the calibers sticking, I also agree with changing the rubber hose brake lines. You should be able to buy either loaded or semi loaded calibers. I would change both sides if your going to mess with it.
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More Turbo
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: North Georgia
I am going to go with new hoses,calipers, and pads. Have the rotors turned and see how that goes. I have done some looking around and have a question on the calipers. I see there are many diffrent ones from 20-60 dollars. Is it worth the extra money for the higher ones and what about the piston there is oem and steel ones. What is the best way to go on a truck I plan on keeping for a long time.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 9,176
Likes: 4
From: Western Central NV
I am going to go with new hoses,calipers, and pads. Have the rotors turned and see how that goes. I have done some looking around and have a question on the calipers. I see there are many diffrent ones from 20-60 dollars. Is it worth the extra money for the higher ones and what about the piston there is oem and steel ones. What is the best way to go on a truck I plan on keeping for a long time.
Scott, if it was me I would go to a NAPA & ask for a loaded replacement with steel pistons. What I do if there are different ones I ask the parts guys to give a GOOD QUALITY UNIT. You don't need a PREMIUM but you don't want a cheap one either. "LOADED" MEANS THEY COME WITH PADS. Ready to hook up the brake lines bleed & go.
Craig
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My pedal didn't go down. I replaced the pistons and the problem was still there. Replacing the power booster cleared the problem. I still drive the truck occiasionally and have had no more problems with it after about 10 years.
All I know is what I have read in a Chiltons 1975 Auto Repair Manual. Power brakes are activated by by depressing the brake pedal which closes off vacuum and allows atmospheric pressure to enter on one side of the diaphragm causing the master cylinder pistons to move and apply the brakes.
If there is a bad vacuum leak, the brakes will be applied a small amount. it may not be enough to even be noticed but there may enough friction to cause the brakes to heat up and seize. It would have the same result as riding the brakes. "Been there and done that".
All I know is what I have read in a Chiltons 1975 Auto Repair Manual. Power brakes are activated by by depressing the brake pedal which closes off vacuum and allows atmospheric pressure to enter on one side of the diaphragm causing the master cylinder pistons to move and apply the brakes.
If there is a bad vacuum leak, the brakes will be applied a small amount. it may not be enough to even be noticed but there may enough friction to cause the brakes to heat up and seize. It would have the same result as riding the brakes. "Been there and done that".
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Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 57,025
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From: Virginia
My pedal didn't go down. I replaced the pistons and the problem was still there. Replacing the power booster cleared the problem. I still drive the truck occiasionally and have had no more problems with it after about 10 years.
All I know is what I have read in a Chiltons 1975 Auto Repair Manual. Power brakes are activated by by depressing the brake pedal which closes off vacuum and allows atmospheric pressure to enter on one side of the diaphragm causing the master cylinder pistons to move and apply the brakes.
If there is a bad vacuum leak, the brakes will be applied a small amount. it may not be enough to even be noticed but there may enough friction to cause the brakes to heat up and seize. It would have the same result as riding the brakes. "Been there and done that".
All I know is what I have read in a Chiltons 1975 Auto Repair Manual. Power brakes are activated by by depressing the brake pedal which closes off vacuum and allows atmospheric pressure to enter on one side of the diaphragm causing the master cylinder pistons to move and apply the brakes.
If there is a bad vacuum leak, the brakes will be applied a small amount. it may not be enough to even be noticed but there may enough friction to cause the brakes to heat up and seize. It would have the same result as riding the brakes. "Been there and done that".
