When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
My manual brakes on my 1968 F100 Ranger sometimes go spongey, and the are as hard as a rock the next pump. I bleed them, but I had my wife working the pedal and I don't think she was doing it right. I just shut up rather than try to get her help again ( I hate that damn couch ). I am 99 percent sure bleeding will solve it, but it seems to me that a worn out master cylinder will cause the same problem. Any ideas?
Trent, the brake system is a closed circuit. Once it is setup it should remain so. Spongy brake indicate something aint right. This can be caused by a failing master or wheel cylinder, leaking line steel line of bad rubber hose that is swelling under pressure.
I understand that there are one man bleeding systems available, you may want to look at using one of those.
Have you worked on or changed anything to the system recently?
bleed it better so you know theres no air in the lines and then if you still have to pump the pedal to get solid pressure then yeah it probably is on its last leg. should only be about 30 bucks. you might want to inspect the wheel cylinders and make sure those arent leaking too.
I think I'll bleed it again this afternoon and see if that makes a difference. I haven't changed anything recently, so it must be a cylinder. It seems like everything is still brand new because I replaced every brake hose, wheel cylinder and the master cylinder when I bought the truck, but that was 7 years ago now. No visible leaks and it is not losing fluid so I probably have to buy a new master cylinder. Thanks
If there are no visible leaks, especially at the master cylinder, then make sure to check the wheel cylinders. I have one of them one man bleeding systems. It's a small hose with a check valve in it. All you do is squeeze it onto the bleeder valve, open the valve, and start pumping. It lets fluid out but nothing back the other way.
If after you bleed them you get the spongy feeling, then you're bleed job isn't good. If it takes days/weeks then something is leaking. If you have power brakes, the master cylinder could be leaking from the backside and the fluid gets sucked into the engine via the vacuum line. That's why you wouldnt' see a leak.
After you have checked all the things listed in the other posts and you are ready to bleed the brakes at that point, I noticed there are people talking about the one man bleeder systems, try this trick, Hook a small vacuum hose to the bleeder that fits the bleeder snug sometimes I use a small tie wrap there, let the other end of your say foot/foot and a half hose feed into a mayonaise jar through a hole in the lid where it will fit tight. put a small breather hole in the lid also. And go ahead a put about an inch of fresh fluid in the mayonaise jar. Pump your brakes slow, 2 or 3 times and then get back out tighten the bleeder up, and that one is now bled. I personally do this 2 or 3 times to flush the lines completly remember to add fluid to your master cylinder if you do this, DONT bleed it dry. Repeat this all the way around on all 4 wheels and you are done. One man Bleeding.
ps make sure the end of the hose in the mayonaise jar stays submerged in the fluid in the jar.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.