Engine build
As for pushrods. I assume you are using NON adjustable rockers, so I'd say you'll have to mock up your valve train and check for proper preload of lifters.
Long winded procedure: Set cam so both valves are closed on cylinder your testing(TDC of compression stroke), install pushrods and start to tighten rocker bolts. As you tighten down, rotate pushrod, then as it tightens down they will then become tight(hard to turn). Stop tightening bolts. At this point, you should only get maybe "1" turn more from rocker bolts. This will give you the needed .06 preload of lifter. If you get much more then that, you'll have excessive preload(might even bottom out lifter), and so you'll need to get shorter pushrods. If pushrod doesn't even tighten up after bolts are snug, then you'll need longer pushrods.
That was a lot of mumbo jumbo, but to make sure all is good it's a needed step. Of course if you use adjustable rockers, this is all NOT worthless information.
Don't have any other information for the rest of your questions.
From all the years screwing with this stuff I've found that: NOTHING IS A BOLT ON!!!! I don't care who made it and what they claim.
Just a typical story: Few years back I build new 428 for race car. Shop I use got me a new windage tray(Canton brand) since it was the 'new fangled version'. Come to find out after an all day fight with it that it only fit 390 stroke motors(they didn't specify anything on box). The extra stroke of 428 crank made it run into the tray everywhere. Lots of cutting, massaging, cussing I finally gave up on it and got a Ford stock version and it fit perfectly. Wasn't too pretty after I cut it to pieces trying to get crank to clear it. Ya....just bolt it on...LOL!!!



