Simple problem is: the harder I hit the throttle, the harder it boggs, and won't accelerate. If I hit it too hard, it backfires.
Details:
I set timing at 10 deg initial, but I couldn't get the distributor rotated enough to touch #1, but it is no less than 6 degrees initial. Started up as soon as it received fuel, and ran for 20 minutes, then pulled valve covers to retorque heads, and found a rocker arm trainwreck, the polylocks had vibrated loose, and three had jumped tracks. No problem, I got everything torqued back down to specs, changed the oil, and took it for a drive, when I found out that I'm not getting the acceleration I deserve. I drove it from my home in Atlanta back to school in Charleston tonight, and it runs fairly well on the highway, 72 MPH @ 2500 RPM, which is down almost 200 RPM from stock, and it still gets 13 MPG, with carburetor jets from my stock engine, and no fine tuning, and I drove it 80 MPH most of the way! I'm going to find a shop that has O2 sensors so we can get the carb tuned to feed this best. It is so loud now, I love it. It was loud before, I have headers and high flow twin cats, no crossover, and 2.5" pipes exiting 45 degrees after rear tires, in front of bumper, so it isn't shy. And it has that "nasty" pulsating noise like dragsters make coming from the engine bay, just to let everyone know, I have a high compression small bock with a cam. It is so smooth and powerful below 2000 RPM, when it runs out of juice, or sooner if I mash the throttle. If anyone has a suggestion to get this thing taching up to 5500 RPM, and blowing the tires (and imports) away, I would love to hear from you. I suspected the fuel pump was too weak, but the salesman at Jeg's insists that I check the jets before anything. I may switch over to a Holley blue electric anyway, but I definately want to get it really running hard first.
Thanks for your concern,
John F. Daly III
The TorqueKing (soon to be crowned)

 

What carb/intake set up are you running?

 

Edelbrock 600 carb, Weiand Action-plus dual plane, Holley street pump

 

Ok, I took it to a performance shop, where we found the first problem was the made-for-EFI fuel filter I craftfully spliced inline just after the tank, it was causing a serious restriction to the poor mechanical pump, which was doing it's best to fee this beast. I'd also like to recognize those who said that my fuel pump was fine, there was just something else, because you were right. After scrapping the filter, we advanced the timing until it came to life, and wow, what amazing results! Now I really feel like the TorqueKing, roaming the streets in search of underequipped imports to feast on. it has the angriest growl I've ever heard, it is so much deeper now, the 9.7 compression really bellows, especially with my freeflowing exhaust. wow, now I can cruise the streets, sound mean, look mean, and have the power and performance to prove it. I actively seek young Mustang pilots, in search of victims. Stand by for pictures of this ultimate small block, as soon as I figure out how, or somebody tells me
John F. Daly III
Formerly known as the Prince of the Foot*pound,
Now the reigning TorquKing
Windsor Jr. Heads,
Comp Xtreme 250 cam,
Edelbrock 600 carb,
Weiand dual plane intake,
Crane Energizer Rockers,
ARP studs, everywhere
MSD 6A Ignition/Blaster II Coil
Flowtech headers/Dynomax twin converters
2.5" pipes, unhushed
9.7:1 static compression
Fel-Pro gaskets
Comp Hi-Energy Pushrods
Cal-Customs Finned Aluminum vintage valve covers
14x2.75" K&N dish
Dyno 2000 reports: 378 Ft*Lbs @ 3000 RPM, 329 HP @ 5500 RPM

 

even though it seems your problem is solved, it might be a good idea to replace the fuel pump anyway. Ford fuel pumps are notorious for busting the diaphragm when you remove the engine. it seems it looses the pressure from the engine, and the float breaks the diaphragm and can cause problems. Replacements are only about 35 bucks at your local carquest, so its better to be safe then sorry