I just pulled my 302 from my 83 F-250 with a C6. The bolt hole on the block just above the starter that conects it to the trany is broke? Is there a fix other than a new block? Can a longer bolt be used with a nut? Or can I just install it and forget about it?

Pumpkin

 

Go to NAPA, and ask for a Heli-Core kit, that should have everything you need to get you squared away. You'll need to know the bolt size, and the kit contains an oversize drill bit, so you'll overbore the hole, then it has the appropriate thread tap, then it comes with an insert that you screw in to the oversize hole which adapts it to take the smaller screw. I've used this kit before, and it saved my block, but mine was a water pump bolt. As long as you have a good power drill (Makita, not DeWalt), you'll be up and running in no time. Actually, the kit doesn't come with the drill bit, but it does say what size to use, and the ones that NAPA has are fine, so just have the salesman there hook it up. The kit costs like $15, and the drill bit is like $2.50, so if you can drill a strait hole, you'll be back on the road for less than $20. If anybody thinks that DeWalt power tools are worth anything, then call me out on this, but I'm telling you, I have Sears Craftsman corded drill, and a Makita cordless (the battery loads like a semi-auto pistol clip; very cool), and the Makita will go for an amazing amount of time on the same battery, without a recharge, and let's just say that it would scare the poop out of any similar sized DeWalt, I know, I've seen them all. That was off the subject, but I know that you'll be amazed how easy the Heli-coil kit is to install, and how great the results are. I thought God had literally come and fixed my truck when I discovered this lifesaving kit. and as always,

Happy Wrenching,
Cadet 2nd Lieutenant John F. Daly III
South Carolina Corps of Cadets, The Citadel
The TorqueKing

 

John's right about the heli-coil. I've also heard them called a thread insert from a different manufacturer. As far as the cordless drill thing goes, I've had several that I use at work every day. I started with a Makita 9.6. It did OK, but not enough power, and the batteries developed a "memory". Kept it for a backup, and bought a Sears Craftsman 12 volt. Big mistake. The charger would die after a couple of weeks. I would go to Sears and get it replaced, and two or three weeks later, same thing would happen. I have to use a generator at times, and I think that had something to do with it. I bought a DeWalt 18 volt about 4 years ago. One of my batteries died recently, my charger "crapped" the bed shortly after, and the chuck slips when using small drill bits. I have the am/fm DeWalt radio/battery charger now, and also the circular saw. If it wasn't for that, I would try a different brand next. Now how's THAT for getting off the subject?

 

The problem is that there is only half of it there. It's a tab that sticks off the side of the block and the outer part is broke off leaving half of a threaded hole.

FYI: Dewalt has a new chuck that wont let the bits slip, You can install one on you older drills.

 

Ohhhh- I see the problem now. I would try what you said, and use a bolt with washers and a nut on the end. If the rest of the engine is good, I wouldn't junk the block. Adding new metal by welding is possible, and then drill and tap, but would be a lot of work and trouble. I'm wondering if any of the epoxy-type bonding putty would adhere, and be strong enough for a repair. If it's been broken for awhile and you haven't had any problems, I wouldn't worry about it.
I'll check on that new DeWalt chuck.

 

Y'all are the first people I've ever met who have positive stories about DeWalts, I love my Makita, and when I need to hit it real hard, I have a Sears Craftsman corded dill. The Sears drill will drill into an engine block fairly easily. Anyway, I feel your pain on that one, I don't really know what to tell you, but I understand that there are very good epoxies out there that might be able to help you out.
The TorqueKing