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It sure feels different, firmer somehow but smooth. I can now turn on my key and then depress the clutch and the starter engages while I still have two inches or more before the clutch hits the floor. I haven't drove it much yet but I think it shifts smoother too. Before the heim joint fix and even after replacing all of the bushings in the pedal box I still needed to push the clutch to the floor before the truck would start.
I push to the floor out of habit. What I've discovered on mine over my buddy's '94, is how heavy my key turn feels! When I say heavy, I'm talking like 15-20lb trigger pull heavy.
But with the regard to the heim joint, the pedal did end up firmer, yet easier to push, though I believe fresh pedal box bushings helped with that too, as my brake pedal would shift half an inch to the right when depressing the clutch!
I push to the floor out of habit. What I've discovered on mine over my buddy's '94, is how heavy my key turn feels! When I say heavy, I'm talking like 15-20lb trigger pull heavy.
But with the regard to the heim joint, the pedal did end up firmer, yet easier to push, though I believe fresh pedal box bushings helped with that too, as my brake pedal would shift half an inch to the right when depressing the clutch!
Thankfully my key turns without undue pressure. However, while I was under the dash I worked the clutch and brake pedals and was amazed at how much movement there was in the clutch/brake pivot shaft. One day in the future I think I am going to get another pedal box from the JY and have a machine shop make some bronze bushings to see what that will do. It's way too much movement for me to trust the plastic bushings for any significant length of time. I watched a Youtube video of a fellow who did it. Maybe it wouldn't be too expensive.
Today I painted 2 rims off of my truck and primed 1. I will complete the other rims on my next day off. Enjoy here is a link with before adn after pictures. Well one rim completed and what the other rims looked like beofre I painted them.
okay.. I did make a run and picked up a spare engine for my 95 F250 w/ 7.3 Power Stroke.
I found a hole in the pass side head in mine. So while hunting a replacement. I found a guy who purchased a 97 by mistake. He needed a newer one.
So instead I got the whole motor with 130,000 miles for the price of a replacement head.
Walked out just to check levels all around and it seems my coolant is a tad on the low side. Original owner says he stuck with stock coolant, but I'm not entirely sure what a modern equivalent to "stock" coolant is. Looking at what's left in the reservoir, I can't make out if it's green or gold in color. Can't get the truck into the garage to drain it until a new distributor rotor arrives for my little Mercedes.
What coolant is best for the 7.3 PSD? Couldn't even find a real consensus on the web, other than folks arguing about what International recommends vs what Ford recommends for the '99+ trucks.
I'll top it off when I determine what it has in it, and then keep an eye on it to see if it's an active leak; I attempted to do a pressure test of the system with my MityVac but couldn't build up much pressure at all, and the pressure that was built up dropped relatively quickly. I didn't hear or see any leakage, so I'm not sure. Truck doesn't run hot either.
Got some out with the other MityVac, it's green stuff.
I also decided to test my reservoir cap and found it won't hold beyond 5psi... could be my culprit, but that doesn't explain why the system wouldn't pressurize with the MityVac... could be a combination of the cap and the reservoir.
ETA: All I see for replacement tanks are ones made by Dorman, along with one aftermarket Aluminum unit for $360-390 depending on who you order it from. Would an aluminum unit be worth it the expense? I could probably make one up at the shop, but it wouldn't have a sight glass, and I know it wouldn't cost me that much in materials or time...
Installed my Rancho 9000's and 1 1/2" level kit. The ride is so different now. No spine jolting bumps with all four on setting one now till the break in period. Leveled out my front bumper while I was doing it.
Installed my Rancho 9000's and 1 1/2" level kit. The ride is so different now. No spine jolting bumps with all four on setting one now till the break in period. Leveled out my front bumper while I was doing it.
Looks awesome, I have a two tone blue just like yours, I may follow your lead!
Looks awesome, I have a two tone blue just like yours, I may follow your lead!
Thanks. The level kit was metal and the stud extenders were excellent. The others I have installed in the past have been poly and the extenders have stripped and broken nuts both times on install. I had to weld the nuts back on. These were much better made, maybe because these are for the 250. I also painted my rusty coils while they were off.
Installed a new fuel filter. Turned out to be a moderate PIA. Took me about 2 hours to do this 15 minute job. My mistake. I took the filter out of the holder on the frame rail and just couldn't get the forward line off. The rear line came off in a few minutes. Once I put the filter back in the holder I got the forward line off in a few minutes. Oh well, live and learn I guess.
Upgraded to the 3G alternator. 14.5 Amps at idle now instead of 9. :-) Cleaned up the battery cables while I was in there.
I also flushed the cooling system and changed the thermostat to a 195. I THINK the old one was a 180 or lower as my truck didn't seem to get fully warmed up. It doesn't have the temperature stamped on it so I don't know. I'm going to flush the system again this fall as there seems to be a lot of powder residue inside the rad and the thermostat housing.
05-21-2018, 03:38 PM
