What is the correct thermostat to use for a 1993 302 EFI, I know some people have said that fuel injected motors need to run hotter. So I was just wondering what comes stock or which works best 180, 195, 205, etc.

 

they like them hotter b/c it runs smoother, and puts out fewer emissions. If this is not a concern to you, then throw in a 160, and as long as your computer doesn't spaz, you'll get better milage, and most importantly, more living, breathing, driving Torque.

The TorqueKing

 

>What is the correct thermostat to use for a 1993 302 EFI, I
>know some people have said that fuel injected motors need to
>run hotter. So I was just wondering what comes stock or
>which works best 180, 195, 205, etc.

The stock would be the 195. i am running a 180 for 2 years now and the truck likes it. the 160 might make the puter spaz like the other fella said. get a "high-flow" one by Mr. Gasket while you are at it.

 

You'll want to use the 195 thermostat just like the factory did. The computer monitors the engine's temperature and won't go to 'closed loop' operation until it is warmed up. This will affect your gas mileage and the health of your oxygen sensors and catalytic converters.

Also, there's less friction between the pistons and the cylinder walls at 195 then at 180 and especially at 160. Also, at 195 water and volatiles will boil out of the oil more quickly, reducing the chance of acids forming in your oil. Also, fuel atomizes better at higher temperatures and that will get a better burn, more power, more mileage, less carbon build up on pistons, rings and valves, less fuel washing of oil off cylinder walls, and less fuel dilution of oil.

I've probably forgotten something.

Best regards,

 

I saw a chart on the net some where that showed cylider bore wear vs engine temp.Cylinder wear was greater at lower temps.I think the optimum was around 185 degrees.I would also not use a 160 on a EFI vehicle for the above mentioned reasons.

Billy

 

You get more power and less detonation (therefore you can bump your timing for more power)with cooler thermostats, 160 or 180. The computer will not have a problem with a 160, at least my 1990 Mustang 5.0 has never had a problem nor has anyone I know, you just won't have a very good heater. Down south that's not a problem but up north that's not very comfortable. Acids and moisture in the oil will increase slightly at cooler temps as well as carbon build-up. Friction might increase slightly but I'm not convinced it's by a measurable amount. I now run 180's since moving up north.

 

A 180 is debateable, but 195 is optimal for an EFI engine. You most certainly will **** off the computer if you monkey around with it. You'll be soorrryyyy!!!!!!!!

 

Okay, this is osrt of an off question but its dealing with SORT OF the same issue, I have an 84 F-150 with the 351 HO in it, running onan Edelbrock intake and 600 cfm carb. Since the days have started getting hot It has started to overheat when I let it sit and run in the sun, but not when its in motion, I checked the radiator and the fluid level was a little low, so I added to it, and it was still running how, so Today I took the thermostat out of it to see if it was functionally properaly and all, I put it into a pot of boiling water and it opened up about 1/4 of an inch, its a 180 thermostat. So what would you guys think the problem is? Thanks in advance.
Daniel

 

>A 180 is debateable, but 195 is optimal for an EFI engine.
>You most certainly will **** off the computer if you monkey
>around with it. You'll be soorrryyyy!!!!!!!!


What are the problems that the computer is supposed to have with a 160 or 180 thermostat? Don't say that it will stay in open loop cause that's just not the case. It goes into closed loop at a lower temp than 160. And don't say that it will cause the engine to overheat cause of the thermostat never closing and not allowing the coolant to stay in the radiator long enough. First hand experience in the Mississippi heat and humidity has proven that wrong. Me or the 15 or 20 Mustangs racers that I used to run with have never had a single problem with a 160. No drop in fuel mileage or power but rather an increase in power cause the engine runs cooler. Any racer knows that's ideal. You don't want to remove the thermostat cause then it might run too cool. But a 160 or 180 will NOT be a problem. Up north I would probably stick with a 180 but down south a 160 or 180 is fine.

 

waldreps, I'm with you. Some people seem to speak not from first hand experience, but what they've heard from someone else. I've installed performance "chips" in Ford vehicles that came with a 160 degree thermostat with the chip. As was said, this allows the timing to be bumped up without pinging. I have never seen a problem on a computer controlled vehicle due to a too cold thermostat. I also agree that the wear issue is not enough to worry about with todays oil. Especially if it's changed regularly. I have a 302 in one of my trucks right now that I bought used from a Lincoln with 140,000 miles on it 12 years ago. I've driven this truck nearly every day, and have put another 160,000 miles on it. I've used nothing but a 160 degree thermostat in it since installing the engine in my truck. I had to replace a head gasket a few months ago, and found only minimal cylinder wear. This engine also burns zero oil, with 300,000 miles on it. This is only one example of several I know of.

 

Rock on, Steve, I appreciate that comment. I run a 160, with 9.7 static, and 190 psi dynamic, so I need the cooler chamber to stop preigntion and detonation, and that retort was soothing to my ears, and my wallet, if you remember me talking about my "Iron Eagle" ultimate small block Ford, utilizing the new Dart block. I am nowhere near the funds required to get into this, I havn't even graduated college yet, I'm a rising senior!

Cadet Second Lieutenant John F. Daly III
South Carolina Corps of Cadets, The Citadel
The TorqueKing

 

>Okay, this is osrt of an off question but its dealing with
>SORT OF the same issue, I have an 84 F-150 with the 351 HO
>in it, running onan Edelbrock intake and 600 cfm carb.
>Since the days have started getting hot It has started to
>overheat when I let it sit and run in the sun, but not when
>its in motion, I checked the radiator and the fluid level
>was a little low, so I added to it, and it was still running
>how, so Today I took the thermostat out of it to see if it
>was functionally properaly and all, I put it into a pot of
>boiling water and it opened up about 1/4 of an inch, its a
>180 thermostat. So what would you guys think the problem
>is? Thanks in advance.
>Daniel

Hi, Daniel.

Does the Edelbrock manifold have a heat shield underneath it? Stock manifolds have a heat shield to protect the engine oil from the temperature of the exhaust cross-over that runs under the carburetor.

Does the Edelbrock have provisions for EGR? EGR helps the engine run cooler. And the timing of the engine is different for EGR vs. non-EGR.

And, has the carburetor been tuned for that engine?

Are there any other modification to the engine such as underdrive pulleys? Along with other modifications, this one is one will cause the most trouble.

Best regards,

 

The Edelbrock manifold does not have a heat shield, is this exhaust crossover pipe that you speak of part of the EGR that is located right behind the carb, that runs from the back of one head to another, if so we have this passage blocked with plugs, since the pipe had been broken off it was leaking exhaust directly into my engine compartment.

The EGR is not on this truck, ALL of the emissions controls have been taken out. We have the timing set though. We tuned up the carb, but im sure it could still use some tinkering,

There have been no other modifications to the engine htough.


Thanks
Daniel

 

 

So since its not the thermostat (just put a new one in, still is heating up pretty good) what would it be? It did have a stock EGR valve, but that has been removed, and it is NOT going back on, I can tell you that much since we blocked the passages for it coming from the back of the cylinder heads. I'd really like to be able to drive this thing for more than ten minutes after its warmed up to normal opereating temp before its starts to heat up. It only gains heat when I let it sit though, like idle, and letting it just sit in drive with my foot on the break, one it gets moving the temperature will start to go down then. Any other ideas on what I am encountering here?

Thanks
Daniel