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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

window seal

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Old Apr 8, 2008 | 05:43 AM
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window seal

i am stripping my whole truck down to the metal and then protecting it a little with gibbs oil to prolong rust attack. my question is, what do i need to do under the windshield seal? i am needing it to obviously seal but i dont want the moisture/rust issue to be 10 times over under the seal being that it would be bare metal................... now that i just confused everybody!
 
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Old Apr 8, 2008 | 07:51 AM
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You are putting the window back in with no paint on frame? Usually it's all painted, then window installed so that the metal is sealed.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2008 | 08:22 AM
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i am just going for something different. i have seen some older rods with stripped down bodies and want to see how it looks when its completely done. i'm thinking i will have to epoxy under the seal to help protect the metal but didnt know if someone else has done this and has any advise
 
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Old Apr 8, 2008 | 01:06 PM
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At the very least I'd mark the perimeter of the seal and paint within that area once the windshield/seal is removed. If you're leaving the truck bare metal you could paint that area silver and even if some of it showed, I doubt anybody would notice.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2008 | 02:06 PM
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How about just clearing the whole thing? A fellow did that here locally with a '40 ******, as it was all original, all steel and very straight(rare). He cleared it and drives it that way. Don't think he uses it daily, but for cruise in's it's a conversation piece.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2008 | 05:38 AM
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yea... never really thougth about that. you would think you would have to have a special clear to adhere just like you need a certain primer over top of bare metal.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2008 | 06:19 AM
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you do. there are clear coatings that are designed to do just what you're looking for. the trouble is i don't remember the name of them! I do know you can get them in a rattle-can, which may suit your needs better.

Just make sure you stick to one coat or two thin coats, as it will start to look yellowy when it gets thick, over a shiny surface.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2008 | 08:39 AM
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There are some paints that look like bare steel you can use. I think Eastwood and POR15 have them in their rust protection lines.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2008 | 09:27 AM
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i wonder if epoxy primer would be suitable enough under the seal?
 
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Old Apr 9, 2008 | 02:44 PM
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Epoxy primmer is the only primmer that does not require a top coat to prevent moisture from penetrating. So it would be a great sealer. And you can spray a top coat within the 5-7 day window with out having to scuff it. But if you thing you may want to spray a top coat, spray a 2k primmer over it (different color) so when you sand you do not get into the epoxy primmer.
 
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