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my wife's '95 f-250 5.8 starts right up when completely cold, and when started after being shut down for about 10 minutes or less. If it is not completely cold, or recenly shut down, it takes several seconds and usually 2 or 3 tries of cranking for it to turn over, and then it "bumbles" for a couple seconds before idling correctly. Once it's started it runs fine. Don't hink it's a fuel pump because I replaced the rear pump a while ago and it still does it. gave it a tune up (all except the coil). Any ideas?
If it blows some black smoke, I would put a fuel pressure gage on it (on the shrader valve on the fuel rail) to see if the injectors are leaking down. To do this, connect the gage, start the engine until the fuel pressure is about 40 psi or so (IIRC) then shut down. The pressure should stay up for quite a while. If it bleeds off rapidly, it's time for new injectors. I had a set cleaned ultrasonically once with good results if you can find someone to do that.
that would make sense... I'd thought I'd heared some excessive noise coming from a couple injectors with my stethoscope. amd there is some blsck smoke (lots of unburned fuel smelling) when it fires up. Can anyone tell me if there is an easier way to clean the injectors? I am assuming to properly clean them (ultrasonically) you have to remove them. If not, is it worth it just to replace the injectors? It looks like I'll have to take the intake manifold off? Is there an easier way? If not, how much tear down is involved and what parts (gaskets, etc) will I need to get? thanx
ohh soo its those little buggers then.. i have the same problem.. just its not that bad it will start after restarting when warm.. but rpm stumbles from 100 rpm to 500 for 10 seconds.. then smoothens out.. and very rich smell also..
what codes should I be looking for? I know OBDII pretty well, but never worked on EEC...? I know where the data port is, and conveniently my wife works at autozone.
There might not be any codes. The O2 sensors won't play with the computer until they are hot and if the engine cooled off enough to allow it to go back into open loop. The code you might see is low fuel limit or rich codes if anything. Re pulling the injectors, it is easy to do and does not require manifold removal but depending on the engine, will require the upper intake to be removed. Autozone has step by step instructions on their site with pictures.
after much reading in the scanner book, my wife and I figured out how to read the damn thing.. gave a couple codes for o2 sensor and EGR valve. Would EGR cause the problem? Still gonna pull the injectors, but figured I should fix these too.