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Non-destructive Rust Removal

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Old Apr 6, 2008 | 05:47 PM
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Non-destructive Rust Removal

So I'm trying an experiment.

What?: To remove rust from steel using Electrolytic rust removal

How?: By submerging metal in a solution of water/sodium carbonate (washing soda ) and applying electrical current through the rusted metal part in the correct direction, "rust" or Iron oxide can be removed. Internet search "Electrolytic rust removal" for more details.

Why?: If this works well. I can remove rust from parts or tools by cleaning and polishing without having to grind away any good metal to get rid of the rust. Brake rotors/drums, suspension parts, steering linkages, etc. Anything that I can soak in a tub I can remove the rust from.




This is a rusty Ford wrench that I found at an antique sale for $2.00. I think it is the perfect test subject for what I'm going to do.



I took the Ford wrench and twisted 20AWG steel wire around it. This will support the wrench while soaking in the solution, and carry electrical current to the part during the rust removal process.



This is the rubber bin that the wrench will soak in while the rust is being removed. I'm using some plain steel chain with some mechanical wire around it for a sacrificial anode. The mechanical wire will allow me to clamp on the battery charger lead without having to submerge the lead in water. I chose the chain for its low cost, flexibility and large surface area.



This is the wrench hanging inside the bin. This is how the setup will look for the 24-48 hours it will take to loosen the rust.



This is how the setup looks right now. I have to go and get some more supplies before I can continue. I hope this works.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2008 | 06:17 PM
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interested to see how this turns out.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2008 | 07:04 PM
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ill be watching to see also. could save me some money in the future
 
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Old Apr 6, 2008 | 07:09 PM
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i picked up all the stuff to do this, but i haven't gotten around to actually doing it. i like the idea of using the chain for the sacrificial anode. should work awesome. its also cheap and readily available.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2008 | 07:41 PM
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So you're plating iron onto the wrench?

Sorry if I'm a little unclear on the concept.
Plating I understand, as well as reducing oxides.
Which one's anode??
 
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Old Apr 6, 2008 | 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk
So you're plating iron onto the wrench?

Sorry if I'm a little unclear on the concept.
Plating I understand, as well as reducing oxides.
Which one's anode??
ok, first things first the anode is the sacrificial metal, and the cathode is the part your fixing. the electrolite is the washing soda/water solution. now, its not metal plating, but it is the same basic process. when dc voltage passes from the cathode to the anode through the electrolite, a chemical reaction occurs, basically the same reaction that causes rust, but in revearse. any rust that is still attached to the original metal will convert back into iron. any flakey rust will fall off. now at the expence of fixing the part, the anode becomes severly rusted. thats kinda the jist of it.

here are some pages with more info.

Giles Favell - 10 1/4" Gauge Railways

ELECTROLYTIC RUST REMOVAL (ELECTROLYSIS)


hope that helps. (hope i explained it correctly too)
 
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Old Apr 6, 2008 | 11:09 PM
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Works great I just did some of my tractors parts. Takes a looooong time on the grimmey stuff but works wonders.

The key is surface area and current. Use a 6amp battery charger, and a big plate of steel works faster than a rebar rod.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2008 | 06:33 AM
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The process is called electrolysis. You can read more about it here:

oops, I see someone beat me to the link.
 

Last edited by 390fe; Apr 7, 2008 at 06:34 AM. Reason: oops
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Old Apr 7, 2008 | 11:14 AM
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I've also done some parts for my car, it works pretty good. Surface area and line of sight play a part. As mentioned, steel plates work great, and if you can get them up the side of the bin as well it helps with the line of sight. Otherwise you might have to turn the parts around halfway through to get the other side.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2008 | 09:26 PM
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I still have to get some more supplies before I can start the experiment. All I need now is the "Washing soda" from the grocery store and the weather to cooperate.

Because of the release of Hydrogen gas from the water molecules being broken apart during the process I have chosen to run the tank outside where it will be well ventilated. Where I live the temperature is still dropping below freezing at night so I can't leave my tank full of water outside for 2 days. So I will have to wait.

I did however have an idea for the experiment. Because the rust that will be removed contains iron, I am going to try locating magnets underneath the tank while it is running to try and collect the rust particles as they enter the water. As I understand the water gets very dirty during the rust removal. I hope it works because if it does it should give me a clearer view of the process happening.



These are the magnets that I am using. I got them from a guy at work who said that he removed them from a hard drive. They are "rare earth magnets" and are very strong. I will place them outside the tank to avoid a chemical reaction. If they are going to work they will be strong enough to collect the debris through the plastic and make cleaning up easier.
 
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