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no there is no filter in the tank. one thing i did that may help is i took the fuel line at the fuel pump off and opened the filler cap. i then blew compressed air through the lines to make sure there were no serious clogs. i had a buddy under the truck listening for bubbles. did on both rear tank and front tank and both were ok. might try that, could blow trash back in the tank and out of the lines.
I am faced with having to remove the rear tank on my 1994 F250 because of bad load of fuel (rust and water ) and a dead sending unit . I will clean itwith degreaser and pressure washing , install a drain bung , and probably go back with capacitance type sending unit from CENTROID PRODUCTS - Computerized Tank Display - Electronic Senders - capacitive fuel gauges (no moving parts) . Any other tips on removine the rear tank ? Does anyone know the resistance ranges for the front tank and rear tank sending units for the 1994 F250 7.3 IDI NA tanks ? - Thanks
IDoes anyone know the resistance ranges for the front tank and rear tank sending units for the 1994 F250 7.3 IDI NA tanks ? - Thanks
Assuming that the IDI tanks ohm the same as the OBS and SD tanks the resistance for the sending units is 145 F - 22.5 E
And in typical Ford fashion the fuel gauge is not calibrated the same as the sending unit. If you get the new units set for 158 F and 16 E the needle will actually read F at full and E at empty instead of swinging was past the E and F as it currently does
Yes, the tanks will be pumped out be before removal . I thought of that one
Thanks for the info on resistance of the sending units for tanks . Before I I order the Centroid fuel sending units ( probes ) , I have to give them the correct resistance values. I know (in typical Ford fashion) that these vary somewhat among models/years .
Originally Posted by BlueMule
Assuming that the IDI tanks ohm the same as the OBS and SD tanks the resistance for the sending units is 145 F - 22.5 E
And in typical Ford fashion the fuel gauge is not calibrated the same as the sending unit. If you get the new units set for 158 F and 16 E the needle will actually read F at full and E at empty instead of swinging was past the E and F as it currently does
ttttmaxx , you can take the bed off without too much hassle. I did this when my pickup went bad in my rear tank. It's easy to work on with the bed off. Just unlock the sending unit and pull it out.
Here is my opinion. Either your selector valve is stuck / broke internally, could be why the gauge pegs out when you switch it. Or your screen on the lower end of the pickup has come apart and sucked up into the tube blocking it.