Here is the Guzzle link.
Welcome to guzzle's 4x4 Autolock Hub Lubrication Maintenance Web Page

I could have sworn you needed three different parts numbers for this, but in reading the directions I only see one. Am I nuts?

 

I think the kit includes the three parts. 2 orings and one clip.

 

What type of cleaner are you using? My old stand by of Brakleen is a little hard on nylon and neoprene.

The new smiles sure are fun... ...I'm done.

 

WD 40 is safe, just not the best cleaner. PB blaster is better and I don't think it hurts the softer stuff. I thought brake cleaner is safe for rubber.

 

PB Blaster is ok on soft stuff. I'm pretty sure that it says it on the label.

 

I did mine a month ago. Take your time and clean everything good. I used synthetic wheel bearing grease on the bearing. I used hi-heat grease for the rest of the parts.

 

I used regular mineral spirits. I quick bath in this stuff doesn't seem to hurt anything. Soaking overnight maybe a different story.

I rinsed the diaphragm and nylon parts off with WD-30 after the bath.

 

Just thought I would update you guys on the status of my project. The stupid dealer said they had the kit and I went to get it and they couldn't find it...It looks like I may get to find out what Dash Number these things are after all. They are a big mother! My little kit doesn't have them, but my dad's work has a ton of orings.
I have not found the source of my problems in my left hub though. (For those that don't know, it would pull in and out of lock while driving down the highway) That is a little disappointing/scary. Stuff was dirty, but it was all moving smoothly. There was a little rust on the left hubs oring connection, but that is the only rust I found.
Neither one of the ***** will turn yet. I guess I will make a tool to turn them tomorrow. They are soaking in Chinese takeout containers full of JB80 overnight (another night...) so they will be totally immersed in penetrating oil. I envision a tool made from a big, ruined socket with two pieces of appropriately sized and spaced flat stock. Let me know what you think of the idea!
Mostly for Guzzle as he has tried hardest to not ruin these things I assume heat is a big no no on the turn ****/neoprene thing??? (I know, stupid question but I don't think it will ever turn!) Did I mention I turned both of them in December and now this!?!
One last thing I think you guys will appreciate. Here is how I put the truck side to bed for the night.
Edit - Oops, I guess you will have to lean to the left!

 

Looks like you're going to have to do the foil delete mod sometime soon.

Somebody did figure out how to pull the **** off, but I can't seem to find it now and don't remember how it was done. Grrrrrrr....

In my experience, brake clean can cause problems on some rubber parts and others it's ok. I'm sure there's a rhyme and reason to it, but I prefer to just play it safe when in doubt.

 

If the soaking with a solvent does not loosen it. You may try a pot of hot/boiled water on the assembly. That shouldn't hurt much but may break things loose. Pour it over the entire assembly to heat it all up and "soften" things. Get the Atoms excited if you will.

If it breaks loose, quickly disassemble it and address the problem

 

Why not just take the hubs off of the truck and diassemble them? They come apart really easy. Maybe just taking them apart, cleaning them and re-lubing everything up will fix them.

I took both of mine completely apart at work last week using Guzzle's instructions and it was super easy. I found that my left hub has a weaker spring inside and that is keeping the gear from disengaging completely. Because of that I get a little clicking sound sometimes from that hub but not for long as they are going bye bye very soon.

 

I'm have similar problems. But not with the serviceable internals. I have to figure out how to remove the "lock-auto" dial to clean the Manual Lock Mechanism. I drilled a small hole in the porous dial strip and ran braked cleaner in until the rust colored cleaner cleared up. Then I filled and let drain with a light oil lube and set it drip for an hr. When you turn the dial to Lock it pushes the engaging gear into place from a behind the rubber bladder. When turned to Auto.....it is suppose to retract. Mine does not unless you push it back with your finger. So using the Auto Hubs as auto hubs works.....just not as manual right now. Tim

 

Here is the end result:
One hub that works and one hub that looks like this and one handy tool that now looks like this. Not such a good deal.
The tool worked decent on the first hub (The one that was messed up from the start.) It did try to jump out when you started to really reef on it. This was solved by one hand on the wrench and one pusing the "socket" into the hub. The tolerances were not very tight on the "socket" so this may have helped relieve stress and elimanate jumping off the hub.
And Tex, I am going to need those hubs a little sooner than we had talked about earlier... Can I just put the gutted shells on for the summer til I combine the best of the best between the two sets?

EDIT - Why didn't the pictures show??? I don't like the clicky deal!

 

I have had one super reader on the website send me his hubs. I was able to get one hub dial off with the help of a 20 ton shop press. Unfortunately, the press didn't fare well with the nylon disk I found behind the ****.

I have not had too much time to play with the other one yet but it definitely appears as if they are assembled without having to press anything together. It looks as if it is like a Chinese jigsaw puzzle, press here while pulling here and twisting there. I just haven't figured out the combination yet but the dial must go slightly past the stop at the lock or auto positions. The hub has to be gutted to get to components on the backside of the dial but it should all come out the front once the unlock combination is discovered.

Maybe I can take some pics of the one I have apart and post them soon.

 

You can have the one I just cashed. Don't worry, I saw the note on top of the directions.