Well, the oil leaks coming from my pan have taken their toll on me and my wallet. Losing about 3qt's to 1 gallon/ week. Tried patching - it works for about 3-6 months but these Michigan winters have their way with anything and everything. My only option now is to replace the pan. Now obviously pulling the engine isnt an option, but i have hear of people cutting the cross member. I have a very good welder who said he would help me but he was a little uneasy just as i was. Couple questions
- I run 4-5K loads alot, this is a WORK TRUCK - 6 days a week. Will this compromise the integrity of the frame AT ALL?
- What does this involve, is it as simple as it sounds - Cutting the cross member, replacing the oil pan, then welding back on? Do we have to take the starter off? I need a time frame to give my welder
- Any other advice would be great

Sorry for the long post and thanks guys! Saving me money again

 

Do you know how easy it is for a mechanic to pull the engine and do it right? Ford spec says the engine has to be upside down for the oil pan sealant to cure, with no oil running down the inside of the block.

 

I believe the Mitchell book says 11 hours for a T-444e R&R.

Pop

 

Ya thats out of the question. I have done liquid RTV gasket before with the pan ride side up and it works fine. No leaks there

Plus - no mechanic wants to do it. Its more of a PITA for them and could cause more problems then it could solve. More liability for them then its worth. Im looking anywhere from $1400 - $2000 IF they even wanted to do it.

 

Though i don't know that I would not pull the engine.As stated it isn't that hard to do.Cutting of the cross member has been discussed at length.Here; https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...d-oil-pan.html is one of the threads with said discussion.Ford_guy is the one ho has done this with good success.You can do a search and get alot of opinions on this.Good luck however you go.By the way,just to make sure.You are sure its the pan leaking.Its not coming from the top of the engine and running down the backside?just asking.Hate for you to go through all this and it turn out to be something else.

 

Actually Marv it's 11.2 hours .

 

.2 hours of beverage chugging?

 

That's how I would look at it! Or maybe a WHOLE two.

Pop

 

Ya there is about 4 different holes that oil is leaking out of. 3 on the very bottom. 1 on the side. These michigan winters eat cars alive. Thanks for the thread also

 

If you go the cross member route.Maybe consider adding,welding in,a reinforcing steel plate.And definately use the sevices of a very good welder.I know there are alot out there that can do some great work.

 

I recommend against cutting the frame.
I participated in the other thread and was not convinced of the safety factor either.
Too many times truck frames are heat treated as part of the strengthening process and welding would remove that tempering.
Insurance lawyers would have a field day if there was an accident. Especially with a work truck.
It's your decision, but for me it is a no-brainer: Pull the engine and get it over with. It hurts to pay for it, but then you don't have to be watching out for that albetross hovering over your life waiting to take a dump on you.

 

The ford dealer in Okemos Michigan says they drop the tranny and bring the motor back and down enough to replace the pan. Don't confirm nor deny this process. Just more food for thought...

 

This is the exact reason I would pull the engine myself.But I have the tools,equipment and knowledge enough to do so.I do agree its an insurance liability.Get in an accident and the lawyers would have a field day with the knowledge of home repairs to the frame.

 

I dont even have half the amount of money it would take. Trust me dan, i agree with you 99.999%. This is a problem that needs to be taken care of now and this seems to be my only option. A couple months down the road and school would be over for the summer and it would be alot easier to deal with. There are many members on here who i trust dearly, Dan, pop, ron, and all the other regulars have never steered me in the wrong direction.

So, this would be the step by step process ..
1. Drain oil, filter, etc.
2. Loosen oil pan bolts
3. Cut cross member just enough to get oil pan free. I assume there will be some forcing it. The guy who was such a JERK to pop said that he unbolted some differential mount? Is this necessary? Im on limited time with my welder, hes doing me a huge favor by helping in the first place.
4. Take old pan out. Clean entire bottom where the pan meets with brake cleaner. Make sure its free of all oil.
5. install new pan - use High heat RTV sealent. Tighten bolts
6. Re weld cross member in place

Thanks guys

 

If I was going to cut it... I would cut the whole thing out and make something that will bolt in for next time ! That's if I ever cut the cross member !! I'm sure you could have a stronger/ better designed cross member than ford ever imagined making ! Thats my .02 !!