302 EFI choke
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Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Jacksonville FL
302 EFI choke
Is there a way to adjust the choke on an EFI 302? I live in Florida and really don't need it plus when its on it idles at 2k rpms for awhile until it finally turns off. Even when the trucks warn the choke still comes on.
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Joined: May 2007
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From: Solon, Ohio
You don't have a choke on an EFI system.
What you have is a computer controlled enrichment system utilizing the injectors.
The computer uses input from several sources for this and the main one is the temp sensor.
The choke action can be overridden (injectors shutdown) by holding gas pedal to the floor.
What you have is a computer controlled enrichment system utilizing the injectors.
The computer uses input from several sources for this and the main one is the temp sensor.
The choke action can be overridden (injectors shutdown) by holding gas pedal to the floor.
Last edited by netscaner; Apr 4, 2008 at 06:27 AM. Reason: Afterthought
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
The cold start routine of the SD EFI system cannot be circumvented, it's hard programmed into the computer.
Elder User
Joined: May 2007
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From: Solon, Ohio
HOLDING PEDAL TO FLOOR CAUSES MAXIMUM ENGINE RPM AFTER ENGINE IS STARTED
That's kinda a given isn't it ?????????..............LOL
I'm sure he realizes it is only while cranking......................and his truck is a 96 which wouldn't be SD EFI
That's kinda a given isn't it ?????????..............LOL
I'm sure he realizes it is only while cranking......................and his truck is a 96 which wouldn't be SD EFI
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
I'll let you look at the first line in the OP's signature again.
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From: Solon, Ohio
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Postmaster
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From: Jacksonville FL
Well the reason im here with an 86 is because people in the 80-86 mostly know about carb trucks since 86 was the 1st year of the EFI.
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You can do a few things to make it rev down sooner, but as has been already stated, it is a computer gig. Try the temp sensor circuit as stated above but it prolly is OK as it revs down as it warms up. You can try setting the base idle with TPS unplugged to the sticker RPM warm, then probe the TPS wiring (hot engine running at idle, TPS plugged in) to see if you have about .96 volts on two of the wires at idle. (The other two combinations will be well over that) Turn the TPS until you have that value. You might need to futz with the holes in the ears to allow movement. Other than that, the only other thing you could do is possibly substitute a different sensor or if it is analogue, put a resistor in parallel. I think it is digital though, meaning it is a switch not a variable resistance. You might find a vacuum leak or two affecting this and possibly a stuck open thermostat.
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