Brake light
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Cincinnati Ohio
Brake light
the one in my dash is still on...I cant figure it out still.... I have replaced my vacuum pump, bled out all my brakes, checked to see if the wires were connected on the proporting valve and the E-Brakes...
I do have the E-Brake pedal held up with wire because I don't have any cables installed. Would that do it even though the pedal is all the way up?
I'm about to just freeging take that little light bulb out!!!
I do have the E-Brake pedal held up with wire because I don't have any cables installed. Would that do it even though the pedal is all the way up?
I'm about to just freeging take that little light bulb out!!!
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 2,091
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From: Suffolk, VA USA
Disconnect the purple wire from the ebrake and the proportioning valve one at a time and see if the light goes off. Both work by grounding the wire, so there could be fault in either switch. If the light goes off after you disconnect either, you can reset your proportioning valve or replace the ebrake switch. Diesels also have a low vacuum warning switch...I believe it's located in the passenger side fender well. I'm not positive that's tied into the brake warning light circuit, but you might want to check that switch also.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Cincinnati Ohio
You know I never thought about that being the problem. I have taken the vacuum line off it before but it didn't do anything, ill go do some searching and trial and error tomorrow.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Cincinnati Ohio
Well I have revisited this dash brake light staying on.
I am thinking more and more it has to do with the cruise control wiring. I have since then cut the hose off the brake pedal, What else under the dash needs taken out, to do away with all the cruise stuff?
Will a bad cruise control make the light come on? and also will it make it stay on after removing all the cruise control items?
I have installed new emergency brake cables from the back all the way to the emergency brake cable.
I also found a vacuum alarm in a junk yard and unplugging it still don't do anything. Is it a bad alarm or what?
Thanks for the help.
If its not any of this its gotta be the proportioning valve.
I am thinking more and more it has to do with the cruise control wiring. I have since then cut the hose off the brake pedal, What else under the dash needs taken out, to do away with all the cruise stuff?
Will a bad cruise control make the light come on? and also will it make it stay on after removing all the cruise control items?
I have installed new emergency brake cables from the back all the way to the emergency brake cable.
I also found a vacuum alarm in a junk yard and unplugging it still don't do anything. Is it a bad alarm or what?
Thanks for the help.
If its not any of this its gotta be the proportioning valve.
Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,658
Likes: 5
From: Out of here
You probably need to reset your proportioning valve, or your E-Brake switch is messed up because you wired it up
Do a search and you'll find out how to reset the valve.
The cruise should have nothing to do with your light staying on.
Do a search and you'll find out how to reset the valve.
The cruise should have nothing to do with your light staying on.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,786
Likes: 28
From: Northern California
Circut #977 Purple/White wire.
Connects to Ignition switch (Active in start)
Connects to porportioning valve.
Parking brake pedal
Brake warning indicator
And low pressure vacuum switch on diesels.
Diagnosis, of brake light staying on...
Remove plug from porportioning valve, if light goes out, reset or replace valve.
Remove wire from parking brake pedal, if light goes out repair as needed parking brake system.
It's a really easy thing to daignose where the problem lies.
Do not disconect or make inoperative the brake warning light. You can be made liable for any accident your truck is involved in, your fault or not, due to a saftey device being made inoperative. Your car insurance can deny payment as well, because you knew the saftey device was disconnected when you drove the vehicle.
Just a heads up there.
Connects to Ignition switch (Active in start)
Connects to porportioning valve.
Parking brake pedal
Brake warning indicator
And low pressure vacuum switch on diesels.
Diagnosis, of brake light staying on...
Remove plug from porportioning valve, if light goes out, reset or replace valve.
Remove wire from parking brake pedal, if light goes out repair as needed parking brake system.
It's a really easy thing to daignose where the problem lies.
Do not disconect or make inoperative the brake warning light. You can be made liable for any accident your truck is involved in, your fault or not, due to a saftey device being made inoperative. Your car insurance can deny payment as well, because you knew the saftey device was disconnected when you drove the vehicle.
Just a heads up there.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 784
From: Simi Valley, CA
Can't figure it out? Hmm...well I can...if it's this > >
D5AZ2B264A .. Low Brake Fluid Warning Light Switch-screws into the proportioning valve.
MSRP: $22.47 / ftepartsguy.com price: $12.13.
This switch, which fits 1980 and later F100/350's & Bronco's, fails on a regular basis and here's why.
The switch is plastic, and over time, develops minute cracks in the threads...when that happens, brake fluid seeps out, the low brake fluid warning light on the dash comes on...and stays on.
Bottom line: replace it. Its had it!
I prolly sold over 1000 of these D5AZ switches at the back parts (shop) counter, and another 1000 + of the previous switches (C8AZ2B264A) used from 1968 thru 1979.
D5AZ2B264A .. Low Brake Fluid Warning Light Switch-screws into the proportioning valve.
MSRP: $22.47 / ftepartsguy.com price: $12.13.
This switch, which fits 1980 and later F100/350's & Bronco's, fails on a regular basis and here's why.
The switch is plastic, and over time, develops minute cracks in the threads...when that happens, brake fluid seeps out, the low brake fluid warning light on the dash comes on...and stays on.
Bottom line: replace it. Its had it!
I prolly sold over 1000 of these D5AZ switches at the back parts (shop) counter, and another 1000 + of the previous switches (C8AZ2B264A) used from 1968 thru 1979.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Cincinnati Ohio
Hmm I never know there was such a thing on it. I emailed Green Sales Co since there just right up the road, online shows they got 10 in stock just gotta see the price they have it for.
Ill get right on replacing it.
Could I suspect the booster going bad?
Ive also noticed the resivor in the master cylinder that goes for the back brakes is all dirty looking compared to the resivor for the front brakes, and my master cylinder is new.
Ill get right on replacing it.
Could I suspect the booster going bad?
Ive also noticed the resivor in the master cylinder that goes for the back brakes is all dirty looking compared to the resivor for the front brakes, and my master cylinder is new.
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Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Since this part was still available, I didn't check Green Sales' (greensalescompany.com) website.
btw: Green Sales is an FTE sponsor.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Cincinnati Ohio
Ive been dealing with Greens for about 3 years now, Every time I walk in the door there I get great service and they go find things in a beat. The only thing I dont like is that on there site they dont provide prices. They still use those micro things or what ever there called, kind of an old school operation they have....
Could I get this part at a regular part store?
Could I get this part at a regular part store?
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,786
Likes: 28
From: Northern California
You can get them from any Ford Dealer.
We still don't know if that is your problem though. Did you unplug the wires from the porportioning valve switch yet? Did the light go out?
Also I don't like the sound of your brake fluid being dirty like it is for your rear brakes. Check the wheel cylinders for leaks, and replace them if nessescery, and flush the bad fluid out of the system. Having bad fluid and leaky wheel cylinders could be why the warning light is on. The warning system could be operating correctly warning you of a problem.
We still don't know if that is your problem though. Did you unplug the wires from the porportioning valve switch yet? Did the light go out?
Also I don't like the sound of your brake fluid being dirty like it is for your rear brakes. Check the wheel cylinders for leaks, and replace them if nessescery, and flush the bad fluid out of the system. Having bad fluid and leaky wheel cylinders could be why the warning light is on. The warning system could be operating correctly warning you of a problem.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Cincinnati Ohio
Well Here is another possibility, I took my bed of this evening and came upon a vent hose going to the rear end, someone has the hole plugged with a bolt. Why is that?
Ive never got to the proportioning valve yet, I been trying to rule out things that were easy to get to before going down there to it.
I plan on when I get the extra money to buy all new hardware and calipers for the back end.
Can I get my drums turned?
Ive never got to the proportioning valve yet, I been trying to rule out things that were easy to get to before going down there to it.
I plan on when I get the extra money to buy all new hardware and calipers for the back end.
Can I get my drums turned?
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,786
Likes: 28
From: Northern California
That's just the axle vent. Unplug that hose, and leave it open to air.
And yes, you can get your drums turned, as long as they are, and will be after turning, still within the min. thickness stamped on the drums. If turning them drops them below the minimum thickness marked, you will need some new ones.
And yes, you can get your drums turned, as long as they are, and will be after turning, still within the min. thickness stamped on the drums. If turning them drops them below the minimum thickness marked, you will need some new ones.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Cincinnati Ohio
I FINALLY got back to my brake problem. I did finally unhook the wire to the proportioning valve and the light actually went out! So thats the problem either my valve or the switch, now I am going to try resetting my proportioning valve and see what happens