Selector valve question
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Posting Guru
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From: Cincinnati Ohio
Selector valve question
Ok I went messing around up under neath my truck just checking it out. I pulled the electric plug on the valve and it was all nasty looking, but pulled out and went back in easy.... I also nonticed one of the hoses looks like it goes into the back of the motor. Whats that for? is it vacuum or something? I would like to get the front tank back into working order but gotta figure out the problem...
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Posting Guru
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From: Cincinnati Ohio
I went and started the truck and unplugged the harness to the valve and used the test light, I only got a light on one of the 5 prongs. Is that wrong?
Also I am trying to figure out how to take the switch out in the cab. How can I test to see if its the switch thats bad? How do i remove the switch?
I like to get both tanks going so i can stock up....
Also I am trying to figure out how to take the switch out in the cab. How can I test to see if its the switch thats bad? How do i remove the switch?
I like to get both tanks going so i can stock up....
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Joined: Apr 2007
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From: elizabeth,co
i think the hose to the back of the motor is the return line. to remove the switch you need to remove the heater controls there are 2 bolts holding the switch to the controls the way i tested mine is i used a switch i knew was good (this probably dont help you but its what i did) usually the switch goes bad not the valve but there are those times when the valve goes. i would start with switch first. good luck
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Posting Guru
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From: Cincinnati Ohio
Well i suspect corroded connections now there working. my front tank is empty though, I start the truck and hit the switch and the fuel gauge will move for me...Now thats the next problem fixing the sending units...
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From: KY
I have a harness out of and 86 and an 83 laying up on a shelf in the shop. If I can get time this week or weekend I will lay out the circuit on paper and post it. They have different valves but the difference is the fuel piping. The electric is the same I would think.
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
I have that somewhere, but three wires are for the tank sending units, two in and one out to the gauge.
Two wires are power from the tank selector switch.
If you can get power on one connector when the switch is on the front tank and it moves to a different connector when the switch is on the rear tank.
Even though I don't have the correct pin out handy right now, I would bet the switch is OK.
Where I did have a problem with mine, was the connector you are working on.
Get it all cleaned up and when you reinstall the connector, with the key on you should be able to hear it switch tanks.
When the selector changes tanks, the fuel gauge connection is the last one made in each direction.
So it the gauge changes levels, the selector should be working OK.
Two wires are power from the tank selector switch.
If you can get power on one connector when the switch is on the front tank and it moves to a different connector when the switch is on the rear tank.
Even though I don't have the correct pin out handy right now, I would bet the switch is OK.
Where I did have a problem with mine, was the connector you are working on.
Get it all cleaned up and when you reinstall the connector, with the key on you should be able to hear it switch tanks.
When the selector changes tanks, the fuel gauge connection is the last one made in each direction.
So it the gauge changes levels, the selector should be working OK.