When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Is there any way to check the comp and see if it's in proper working condition? I think my truck was on fire once and the wiring is all over the place. It still starts and drives properly (to the best of my knowledge), just trying to soak up more knowledge.
Set in on fire again, if it quits working, your computer was probably good...... Seriously, maybe you should list a year, motor, ...ect. I'm sure somebody knows, but there were quite a few changes in this year frame.
That's great- I guess he sould have bought a Miliwakee! Nice to know somebody gets it sometimes, though. Every now and then I find myself tapping the mike.... hello?... anybody there? It's really bad when the guy comes back and says: "you were right, it was good before the second fire, but now my power steering won't work...." Oh well, I'm either funny or mean( nice people suck too) and sometimes I just don't know when to quit- I wish I had a computter, I have to figure out the break on every green myself, and line it up and hit it just right. Regular putters suck.
A Milwalkee is an American made high quality brand of power tools,I was referring to the Dewalt quip, suggesting that maybe a Milwalkee drill would do the job. I'm probably misspelling it.
See if it says EECIV on the radiator sticker. If it does, you should be able to read the codes just like a fuel injected engine. Here's how to do it with a testlight or voltmeter.
No, no... It's worse than that. I don't drink beer much anymore, but back in the day, I used to drink something called Milwaukee's Best. Somehow, I never quite believed that to be the case. In fact, I'm not sure how they didn't get sued for that. Maybe only good beer was made in Colorado. In my prime I would drink anything that started with a "B" ended in a "R" and had a couple of "EE's" in the middle. Coor's was my favorite, excepting free. But cheap beer was better than no beer, and budget constraints meant downsizing, because elimination was out of the question. They say the older you get, the more expensive your liquor should be, so I ought to be drinking Napoleon brandy, I guess. What, you don't savour the delicate balance of hops and bad water that make Ol' Mil a classic?
The sticker is not really on the radiator, it is just in front of the radiator cap. I just looked at mine, EEC IV and feed back carb, on my 86 F150 4x4 I6.
I have swap out the carb already (last year) and when it gets warm I will install my new VAC dizzy and GM 4 pin IGN module.
Here is my question... Can I remove the computer completely? Does the TACH or other stuff still need it? Does the Pos. side of the coil get it power from the Computer?
I would like to remove all the stuff that is just dead weight.
I am still running the air pump and it is currently always dumping air into the exhaust between the two CATs.But I might take the belt off the air pump to see if I can tell a difference with the MPG. I would like to open up both cats some day also, but it looks like a big job and if there are not pluged up I would not see any gas mileage increase anyway.