I went kind of low tech too, I also believe you should filter the oil at "room" temp, and not rush it. I have a Dahl100 filter that I just connected to a used inline fuel pump I had laying around and connected it to an old battery. I let the oil sit and settle for a month undisturbed in a 55 gal open top drum (open top so I can steam clean it out if I get crap built up in the bottom) Then pump off the top 2/3 through the Dahl filter with a 2 micron filter (comes with a 10 micron which is probably fine, but you can get it in 2, 10, 30 micron options). It pumps about 10-15 gal/hr that way. I have a clean 20 gal plastic drum I pump it into or straight into the tank. (I have a 40 gal rear tank with a coolant heated pickup and a 90 gal tank in the bed that feeds the rear tank.)

I have a 150 micron screen (from a hydraulic tank) at the ned of my suction tube. And I collect with a inline fuel screen (stainless steel) which gets it down to about 50 microns at the end of the discharge line that way it is easy to swap out if it gets plugged. That way I don't take home much crap to begin with. Then I just use some solvent and wash out the fuel screens to be used again next time. I bought some of those big 30" long 1 micron socks, I was planning to let the oil gravity feed from one drum to another but I never got around to doing it and I don't know that I will bother with it. Settling the oil is your best friend. Don't rush it, let it sit a month before working with it. Then you know you don't have water let in it, which you realy don't want to deal with in your injection system. Besides when the water settles out it takes with it any of the other water soluable molecules with it.

 

thanks I will need to make sure I have a stock pile of filtered vo before I start to use it. in order to let it sit thanks agian

 

I have been running wvo in a 97 psd and an old benz car for over a year now and have had no touble. we bought our kits from greasecar.com and installed them ourselves. It will take a long full day to install, but at nearly four bucks a gallon it is will worth it. We buy long sock filters from an industrial supply catalog. We pump the raw wvo thru a screen into one barrel and then heat it with a drop in barrel heater. After an hour or so we pump thru the filter hung from a chain into our clean barrel. The kit from greasecar has a secondary grease filter and I have to change it fairly often. We use 5micron filters. We tried using 1micron filter, but it didn't really seem to make the onboard fuel filter last any longer. Our system is fast and efficient and seems to work really well. If you need anymore advice, just post.

 

thanks will do

 

You could filter in stages too. first stage could be "through a screen", then "into old pantyhose", then "into homemade newspaper filter", then onto the 2 micron filter that cost you money.

You'll see real quick that the oil plugs up a filter in a hurry, so try to use some cheap filter for the bulk of filtering.

 

I made my own conversion kit for all my old Fords, but for my old 93 Dodge, i decided to "experiment" with that. NO second tank, no heater, no nothing, just straight blended fuel, different blending based on different temps, no problems out of anything, except the dodge, which after 16,000 miles burned out the injection pump, however, as weak as it was it had been getting there way before I put veggie in it, the veggie just speeded up the process. No engine problems yet though, just the one injector pump, on my test dummy.

 

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my 99 f250 has 420k on the clock, 110k of which is on wvo. still runs great and no major repairs and nothing with the engine or fuel system besides glow plugs. im willing to help you guys out with any questions. feel free to contact me.
dave laferriere
greenmachinefuel@gmail.com

 

What part of the country are you in? Do you use a heated two tank system?

 

I have about 60k on wvo. I heat it by use of a Hot Fox and heat exchanger mounted to the fire wall. But I never shut down and start up on diesel. It takes a couple extra cranks to get started when its 30*F or colder out but it always starts. A couple times last year I couldnt start it when it was about 10-15*F out for about 5 days. So I had to flip the switch and start it on diesel, but after about 1 min I flipped the switch back to wvo and no problems.

Think my injectors/pistons/valves are getting messed up?

 

I believe cold oil in a cold motor is a recipe for disaster due to blow-by and incomplete combustion, so I run a Vegistroke V3 with some heat upgrades (some info in my photo gallery). I also believe water and impurities in VO will cause injector problems, so I use a bowl-type centrifuge and push the cleaned oil through a spin-on fuel filter before it hits my veg tank.

So far I've done 60K miles on WVO with my '02 7.3L Excursion and all's well. I know many others doing similar things that have a lot more miles than me and are also doing well. So, if this grease thing is done right, I'd say there's a better-than-good chance that a PSD will burn grease just fine for a very long time.

 

You are SO correct. When I get to my computer, I'm on my phone now, I'll post pictures. I have been using WVO for about 10 years now. Clean oil and heat are the secretes. Ken Gardner

 

I bent two push rods last weekend. I will pull my injector soon and see what it looks like. I'll post pics.

 

Damn I probably should have been heating my WVO before running on it. Oh well, at least this is fixable.

https://picasaweb.google.com/Joseph....eat=directlink

 

When running WVO the engine oil must be changed way more often. Running cold oil in a cold engine only contaminates the engine oil quicker. I recommend changing oil every 2500 miles, or sooner.