GPR LED Install Question/Problem
Fleet Mechanic
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Originally Posted by sflem849
I guess the way I conceptualize it is amps being the measure of load and volts being the type of supply. I guess that is how you would say it. Where the hell do ohms come into play?
When you open the valve and the water starts to flow, the actual flowing of the water is like current (amps). This flow may or may not cause a pressure (voltage) drop in the circuit, depending on the circumstances.
A small hose is like a wire with high resistance (Ohms). Less water will be able to flow through (amps), for a given pressure (volts).
Since the current you are trying to flow for the LED is so low, there will be very little voltage dropped by the wire, even though its resistance might be relatively high (if you use a small size).
This voltage drop is insignificant by itself, and is made even more so by the fact that you need to put a resistor in series with the LED anyway, and it will have a much higher resistance value than the resistance of the wire. Most of the voltage will be dropped across this resistor.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: BLT, MN
I have nothing constructive to add except to say that I did mine yesterday with 14 ga (because that is what was laying around) and all went well. 
Sorry. Not trying to rub it in. Sucks when something that seams like it should be easy does not turn out to be. I have had MAAAANNNNYYYY of those projects. It just does not seem to me like 20 ga should be a problem.
Sorry. Not trying to rub it in. Sucks when something that seams like it should be easy does not turn out to be. I have had MAAAANNNNYYYY of those projects. It just does not seem to me like 20 ga should be a problem.
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From: SE Wisco
Originally Posted by DieselCamper01
...Sucks when something that seams like it should be easy does not turn out to be. I have had MAAAANNNNYYYY of those projects...
I am over it.
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From: SE Wisco
Originally Posted by empiretc
a quick shot of paint will fix that right up.
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From: SE Wisco
Originally Posted by Texas Outlaw
Don't feel too bad Pete. My GPR indicator mod has been sitting on my toolbox in the Radio Shack bag since the day that I bought the stuff. I bought the stuff the day that Brandon posted the instructions for it.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Fallon,NV & Bainbridge OH
I bet he has short to ground from his "borrowed" wire from work. It either already had an issue with the insulation or it got it scuffed off on the pull. 20ga wire typically has a very thin insulation. I would check for a short, use your multi-meter and check for continuity on your existing wires. It might be a simple fix like taping up a scuff in the insulation. I say this because I know you don't want to redo your job.
Good Luck.
Good Luck.
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From: SE Wisco
Originally Posted by truckeemtnfords
I bet he has short to ground from his "borrowed" wire from work. It either already had an issue with the insulation or it got it scuffed off on the pull. 20ga wire typically has a very thin insulation. I would check for a short, use your multi-meter and check for continuity on your existing wires. It might be a simple fix like taping up a scuff in the insulation. I say this because I know you don't want to redo your job.
Good Luck.
Good Luck.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 13,144
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From: Rochdale MA
That is possible scott, a few weeks ago in the middle of a pull my helper noticed a bare spot on the reel. factory defect. we had to pull the wires out and re do the pull. how did you end up making out?
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Fleet Mechanic
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If there was a short somewhere along the wire, the LED would not have glowed when he jumped across the fuseholder with a screwdriver. Unless of course the short was a fairly high impedance, in which case I would have expected smoke.
All of the symptoms in the original post point to a lack of a series resistor in the LED. If that were the case, the LED would glow (but not for long before it burned out) when the fuseholder was jumped. But when a fuse was installed, it would blow.
How's the troubleshooting coming sflem?
All of the symptoms in the original post point to a lack of a series resistor in the LED. If that were the case, the LED would glow (but not for long before it burned out) when the fuseholder was jumped. But when a fuse was installed, it would blow.
How's the troubleshooting coming sflem?
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From: SE Wisco
If there was a short somewhere along the wire, the LED would not have glowed when he jumped across the fuseholder with a screwdriver. Unless of course the short was a fairly high impedance, in which case I would have expected smoke.
All of the symptoms in the original post point to a lack of a series resistor in the LED. If that were the case, the LED would glow (but not for long before it burned out) when the fuseholder was jumped. But when a fuse was installed, it would blow.
How's the troubleshooting coming sflem?
All of the symptoms in the original post point to a lack of a series resistor in the LED. If that were the case, the LED would glow (but not for long before it burned out) when the fuseholder was jumped. But when a fuse was installed, it would blow.
How's the troubleshooting coming sflem?
I just got home from work so I haven't messed with it yet. The purpose for the 276-0272 is bc it has a built in resistor IIUC. I burnt an LED trying to do the stupid airbag light fix. The dude who wrote the directions said to test the LED on a battery before installing to ensure correct polarity. Dumbazz...for one it has a long leg and for two it will blow up the LED
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From: SE Wisco
Everything works today.
I know I could have trouble shot the system (but it wouldn't have mattered) but I didn't. I came to the realization that it was just easier to run new wires.
I ran 16 ga (that is the next smallest we had at work) and blah, blah, blah. Done.
The Aholes at Radio Shack refused to exhange my big fuses for mini fuses so I told them to scratch, I was going to NAPA. So I went to NAPA and the smallest minis they had were 2 amps. (LET ME KNOW YOUR THOUGHTS ON THAT) I installed it and all is well.
Thanks for all your help through the whole deal. Sorry for getting so frustrated. It is tough when something so simple turns out the be a HUGE PITA!
I know I could have trouble shot the system (but it wouldn't have mattered) but I didn't. I came to the realization that it was just easier to run new wires.
I ran 16 ga (that is the next smallest we had at work) and blah, blah, blah. Done.
The Aholes at Radio Shack refused to exhange my big fuses for mini fuses so I told them to scratch, I was going to NAPA. So I went to NAPA and the smallest minis they had were 2 amps. (LET ME KNOW YOUR THOUGHTS ON THAT) I installed it and all is well.
Thanks for all your help through the whole deal. Sorry for getting so frustrated. It is tough when something so simple turns out the be a HUGE PITA!
Fleet Mechanic
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2 amps is just fine, you are protecting against catastrophic failures (i.e. fire in the wire). They don't need to be slow-blow either, those are for applications that have startup surges. Fast-blow is fine.
I recommend placing the fuse holder as close as possible (electrically) to the source (the GPR terminals). This way you are protecting against shorts over the entire length of the wire.
Congrats on getting it going!
I recommend placing the fuse holder as close as possible (electrically) to the source (the GPR terminals). This way you are protecting against shorts over the entire length of the wire.
Congrats on getting it going!
