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Old Mar 27, 2008 | 09:53 PM
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Brakes

Ok I need some brake experts.. I'm by far NO expert in the brake field.. I know a little but not a lot..

I've had to change my brakes out 7 times this year.. Lot had to do with screwed up pads a company sent me.. Finally got it all set but my big concern is.. I haven't lubed my caliper bolts.. Is it possible by not doing that I could develop shaky braking? I feel like my front brakes are going to just fall off.. I'm wondering if its because I didn't lube them.. If so to lube them I just take the bolts off and grease them, then put them back in right?
 
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Old Mar 27, 2008 | 10:08 PM
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Sound like you have a bigger problem then just lube. 7 times in a year is crazy. As far as lube goes, it is the slides that need lube and not the hold down bolts. If you have a lot of shake it is probably due to rotor warpage. and not lube. A sticky slide could cause the warpage though.

Good luck
 
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Old Mar 27, 2008 | 10:14 PM
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Hmm.. well the pads were changed b/c damn company made a lot of mistakes with pads.. It was a big mess.. Finally I just threw em out and moved to Hawks.. I looked over the rotors (Cryo Treat Slotted).. Visual appearance showed no warping.. Wondering now if the slides sticking may have caused it..

Now lubing it, slides are what is under the rubber pieces right? I pull the rubber back and lube that??
 
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Old Mar 27, 2008 | 10:18 PM
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When I do my brakes I take out the "slider bolts" (ones with the rubber) and use a high temp copper grease on the smooth part and slide them back in. You can get the grease from any autoparts store. It can be used on turbo bolts etc. but works like a charm on the brakes.

I also put some grease on the ends of the metal part of the pad where it touches inside the caliper to help it slide easier. Just make sure not to get any grease on the pad surface.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2008 | 10:18 PM
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Yup, you go it. Pull the rubber back and lube away with a brkae lube. I use a product from Raybestous. You more than likely will not see warpage. You would need a dial indicator to measure it.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2008 | 10:19 PM
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Slider bolts come out?

I never pulled em off.. I just unbolt the caliper bolts.. then take the caliper off to change pads.. I didn't know they come off.. Your talkin bout the piece that has the notches on one side?
 
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Old Mar 27, 2008 | 10:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Fleet Guy
Yup, you go it. Pull the rubber back and lube away with a brkae lube. I use a product from Raybestous. You more than likely will not see warpage. You would need a dial indicator to measure it.
True.. See i've felt warp before.. Its not like that.. To me its like im trying to grab the brakes but its not working.. Like something isn't moving when it should.. Braking is there.. I've had this problem forever.. You slam on the brakes it'll stop.. Its when I use light pressure.. Its like I gotta hit the brakes harder to force the calipers all the way down..

Im thinking its the sliders.. I inspected them the other day when I was under and I noticed when I pushed the rubber back they looked like they were dry..
 
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Old Mar 27, 2008 | 10:23 PM
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I haven't done a brake job in awhile and havent done one on the beast, but calipers are all very similar. I do remember being able to pull them out, but there is always a chance i could be wrong.

As for greasing the pad... I put grease on any part that has metal to metal to contact...wherever the pad "bracket" touches the caliper. BTW, I'm not really up on my brake lingo if you haven't noticed.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2008 | 10:31 PM
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Smile Wagner SD Pads

If you're ready for break pads again, and seven times in a year is WAY off the hook. Try a good pad. I'm hardcore Wagner, if you're getting a vibration, you have a warpped brake rotor. I'd never just slap on pads. Allway's have the rotor's machined. That gives you a true flat serface, no vibrations, better contact serface for youre brake pads.
And use a good high temp lube like Anti Seeze Hi Temp brake lube. Put it on all you're slide bolt's, i even put it on the ends of the pads themselves. Just a dab will do you. You don't want to contaminate the pads.
Bob
 
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Old Mar 28, 2008 | 12:01 AM
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He has Cryo-Slotted Rotors, they can't be turned. I haven't had any problems with mine and I did lube the hell out of everything as I was putting it back together. I didn't take the slide bolts out, just pulled the rubber back. I have read here before that you can remove them and should replace with a heavier duty pin.? Not sure if it was talking about older models or what, but I do remember seeing it somehwere.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2008 | 08:58 AM
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7 times in 1 year was manufacturing problems.. Wasn't me eating pads.. They just kept coming with flaws.. Finally we got a set that was right (looong story)

I'm going to pull it apart this weekend and lube up the parts.. See if that helps..
 
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Old Mar 28, 2008 | 10:03 AM
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Strom, try this link there is a good write up over lubing the slide pins:
http://guzzle.rbmicro.com/cu.html
 
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Old Mar 28, 2008 | 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by 03_PSD
Strom, try this link there is a good write up over lubing the slide pins:
http://guzzle.rbmicro.com/cu.html
Thanks! EXACTLY what I needed..

Belton eh.. Not far from me.. I'm in Gtown LOL
 
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Old Mar 28, 2008 | 10:19 AM
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i'll actually be in some part of GTown today, wedding reception.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2008 | 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by 03_PSD
i'll actually be in some part of GTown today, wedding reception.
OOOh fun... LOL.. Gotta love those
 
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