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if you are going to leave them locked in i would watch how fast you drive. Would not take it to highway speeds with them locked in at least not for a extended time. the front hubs will get hot and could burn up. If driving around town i would not see a problem with it just watch highway speeds
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^^^
he just answered my question
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not to thread jack but I live out in the country and have a 30 mile communte. my gravel roads require 4WD some days in the winter but I have a 90% highway/interstate drive. I've been getting out of my truck and locking/un-locking my hubs before and after I get on the highways.
What would you guys recommend for higher speed travel with/without the hubs being locked? what is the max recommended speed for locked hubs? the gas mileage isn't a concern.
I have run the highways with my hubs locked on an older truck with no problems. I have not torn down a new set of hubs but if they are anything like the older ones there is nothing to heat up. Run at 100mph if you like it will make no difference. Yes if the front hubs are locked you can shift into and out of 4wd at will at any speed.
Dodge and Chevy both turn both hubs all the time that’s how they are designed. They engage the right axel internally to engage 4wd.
Things may have changed since I twisted wrenches on the big three but I doubt it. I lock the hubs on my 06 and shift in and out of 4wd at will just as I did on my older trucks. During the winter months I consider it a safety issue to keep the hubs locked allowing me to use 4wd when slowing down to avoid the brakes, keeps all four turning the same speed, less likely to swap ends.
I run at highway speeds (65+) with my hubs locked, often. It doesn't hurt anything. The hubs do not get hot and cause things to burn up. I don't engage 4 wheel drive at that speed (under 60 MPH is my rule) but spinning your axle and driveshaft at over 60 MPH will not hurt your truck.
It's kind of a nit-picking point, but you can put it in 4WD on hard, dry pavement with no problems whatsoever..... as long as you keep driving straight ahead.
The trouble starts when you turn. Then, the front wheels and the rear wheels take different tracks; the front wheels have to travel farther than the rear wheels, and therefore have to rotate faster. The transfer case, however, is going to make darn sure that the front and rear prop shafts turn together. The argument gets settled by the one tire with the least traction.... it will slip, and the load on the drive train will be fundamentally the same as smoking the tires.
Absolutly not! It's like having a locked spool in your rear. Your transfer case becomes the differential between the front and back rear. there is a torque difference between your front rear and your back. There will be binding within your drivetrain. Ever had a real hard time getting your transfer case out of 4wd? well thats what I am talking about. The only time you can drive, straight or not, on hard pavement in 4wd is when you have a differential in your transfer case like the old NP 203's
Absolutly not! It's like having a locked spool in your rear. Your transfer case becomes the differential between the front and back rear. there is a torque difference between your front rear and your back.....
Ummmm..... unless your axle ratio or tire diameters are different from front to rear, it's a big NOT!!!!
You need to understand the difference between what is commonly called "All Wheel Drive" and "4 Wheel Drive".
AWD has a differential inside the transfer case (sometimes limited slip, sometimes not). With this setup, you can spin one, and ONLY one tire out of the four. In small, car-based vehicles, this is usually all you get. In the larger, truck-based vehicles, they will have something called "4 Lock" or similar..... selecting this locks the differential in the xfer case, giving you 4WD instead of AWD.
A 4WD vehicle doesn't have the xfer case diff, leaving you with two options.... drive the rear prop shaft only, or drive 'em both. And, when you select "drive 'em both" (4WD) they will both, by God, turn at EXACTLY the same rate, unless something's broke..... and then, usually nothing works.
I've had the hubs locked in on my 05 for 110,000 miles now. I only went through one tank with them unlocked to see if there was any difference, there wasn't for me...
My manual (2003) says don't engage 4HI (manual xfer case, manual trans) above 55MPH when it's above freezing or above 45 mph when it's below freezing.
The truck must be stopped to engage 4LOW.
I have run with the hubs locked at highway speeds without a problem, but there was generally some snow or whatever on the road. (The next question is why was I going that fast, but that's another thread.) However, I don't make a practice of doing this.
I only notice a slight drop in MPG (1 or less) driving in 2WD with the hubs locked.
This was possible with older transfer cases that acted like a differential and could tolerate the different axle speeds (much like a a differential deals with 2 different wheel speeds while turning a corner).
The Super Duty transfer cases act like a locked differential. Parts would break if you have a 4.55 in front and a 4.56 in the rear.
I go back to when I first got my 67 Bronco and wondered the same thing. But I found something that made me think (YES, it hurt) = What is difference btw a front diff and a rear diff? NOT much other than the Ring and Pinon patern. So I've found that wear and tear isn't an big concern. I'd only say that with my '01 ESOF and a drop of 2-3 MPG is the only downside, well OK also a slight hit on the overall power side. So in the winter I run mine locked as needed - on cold snowy days I stay warm and with the flip of a switch = I GET WHERE I NEED TO GO. When it's dry and clear I unlock'em.
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