Has anyone rustproofed their truck? I tend to keep my vehicles a long time, 10 + years. Was thinking about doing it myself with the spray can stuff but don't have any experience with it wether it does any good or if I should just have it done.

 

I would have it done. They would have the right equipment to get into all the doors and jams, etc. I wish I had done it with mine when I first purchased it, but didn't. It's an 04, so I'm thinking it's a little too late, but I like the added benefit of quietening the overall noise level in the truck.

 

Save your money, I seriously doubt that rust proofing procedure actually does anything. Unless you live in a very-very dry climate, when it's time for a vehicle to start rusting...it will.

 

Around here I've seen cars a few years old start rusting and 10 year old ones with no rust...can you guest which ones had rust control treatment of some kind?

I've got Krown on my BMW at the moment, no rust.

I know some folks over in the 73-79 forum use a can of oil and a paint brush and get anything under the frame that looks like it could rust...and have had good luck.

Just do something you won't regret it (though some of the 'oil sprays' make the car smell for a day or so...not so much a fan of that but it's worth it in the long run).

-Chad

 

there is a kit that makes negative ions and repels the rust from your frame and body something like that it was on that show called Truck U on speed vision it was developed for machinery for salt mines and now its for your truck its pretty cool

 

I've heard of some using some "special" anodes like the ones in use in the "portable-sinkable" metal hurricane/typhoon wave breakers. I have yet to see one in person though.

 

Some vehicles by design will simply rust quicker than others.
I recall a company called ZEBART (or something like that) they jumped on the "rust proofing" band wagon when it took off years ago. Turned out their procedure did nothing and in some applications actually accelerated rusting because it plugged water wheep holes the vehicle manufacture provided.

 

Yup, it happened to a Ranger of mine that was Ziebarted everywhere underneath.

 

Perhaps we should form a consensus / list on bad procedures?

When I used to do oil sprays for the shop I worked at it was quite literally oil in a can that I sprayed, and I only did the undercarriage and in any holes I could get in (the wheep holes you are refering to I assume). This didn't plug anything though it was a thin layer and it had to be repeated each year as it's effect was no where near permanent.

I pick my new truck up in April so I'm really interested to hear any horror stories...or positive ones. My 11 year old BMW has no visible rust anywhere, I'd like to write on here in 11 years about my F150 having 0 rust on it anywhere

-Chad

 

All I know is my Ranger started rusting from the inside out. I was in Kentucky at the time (Ft Campbell) and they used to throw some serious salt, not Mag-Chloride. The Ziebart made it nice and quiet though. Ever since that episode, I've shyed away from it.

 

Rust will usually start where any bolt-on parts are added to the exterior such as mud flaps, or especially around wheel well trim accents. Once the paint is screwed into that's where moisture gets a chance to get under the paint and start to eat away at the metal underneath. Up until about 5 years ago my 20 year old F250 Lariat was rust free but now need the rear fender wells replaced, because of the trim pieces...after snow storms I was very religious about washing down the under carriage of road salt and dirt build up that will hold moisture that causes rust to start.
As mentioned prior, some vehicles in how their designed will simply rust faster than others...it's how the folded metal parts over time hold dirt and moisture. Some vehicle don't have many cavities that hold debris and thus won't rust as quickly.
But again...if ANY vehicle is left out in a damp climate during it's lifetime rust is on the way.
If you have a nice warm garage where the dampness can fully dry out, that will retard the rusting process for quite sometime but not forever.
Move to Baha California or Arazona...your vehicles may not rust but, the extreme heat and strong UV rays from the sun will fade, melt and break down the inside and out materials just as bad as our rusting problems in the snowy/rainy parts of the globe.
Either way...we're screwed.
*EDIT...at times I thought about using WD-40 in a large pump sprayer and once a month do the whole under carriage, under door jams, hood etc to help repel moisture...after all, the WD in WD-40 means (water dispersant), I would NOT spray oil into the factory weep holes...this would just cause dirt to accumulate and build up and hold moisture!

 

i work at a place called ziebart i see alot of vehicles everyday some ford f 150s with rotted out a-arms some with no rust. Im not gonna say that rust proofin is 100 percent good but i will tell u what it is they spray.A thicker sealent then like say wd 4o tha actually hardens up like wax to the inside of the doors about6 to 12 inches up from the rocker panel, hood , tailgate wat not.Which takes alot abuse comin from tires ect.i think personally think doin the door sealent is good. When u buy a factory ford truck almost all weep wholes on the bottom of the doors, r blocked by a piece of plastic which in time will fall out, u dont even no it but ur doors get water in them buy puddles anything. If u live a area which is heavly salted ur gnn rust, salt rusts metal duh. if u live in texas with no humidity dry air of course its not gn rust out, if u live in bermudea which at nice the sea mist that drifts threw the air and sits on the frame and underneath of ur truck its gonna rot oout.Just A little inside for the chemical usage which is used in the doors
superduty 2004 -even my bottom sems are rusting where the metal curls up common on any ford ****ty door sealing they need to deff change that design to somethin like the dodges have haa cant believe i said that ,but it is such a better design i must say

 

I have a 13 year old econoline that has been used as a construction work van and it does not have a hint of rust anywhere just keep your truck washed and detailed and put on a good sealant and you should have no problems...newer vehicles don't have nearly the same rust issues as the old ones if you live in the rust belt you just have to make sure you are always getting the salt off the surfaces of the vehicle instead of letting it sit

 

True it's a good practice getting the road salt/debris off the surfaces you can see AND get to...but...where the problems occur are deep in the folds of the metal where moisture, dirt etc collect and we can't get to.
A waxed painted surface is great unfortunately, it has nothing to do with what's happening around the backside of the sheet metal.

 

Vermont uses so much salt that the deer suffer from hypertension from the water they drink along side our roadways.

I have had previous trucks oil undercoated with good results in the past. When I bought my '94 Dodge I figured that manufacturers were using galvanized steel, etc. and didn't bother with rust proofing.

Within 10 years I had rust through above the rear wheel wells. Last year, one of two straps that support the gas tank rusted off including the frame mounting bracket piece on one side. I resorted to tyeing the tank up with a nylon rope. The other strap was perforated and was in sad shape. I stood on the OEM running board to clean the windshield and the bumper frame let go because of rot where it attached to the frame. When I had by windshield replaced after catching a pebble, the glass dealership refused to warranty the job for leaks because of the rusty window frame.

So I'm thinking about getting the new STX oil undercoated. It seems to be the only treatment that works around here. The only reason I'm on the fence is that it's messy for a couple of days after it's done. I'm surprised it's still legal. They drill extra holes to apply new hydraulic oil with a wand and put rubber plugs in when they're done. It costs about $50 and should be done annually during a dry spell in late summer or early fall.