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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 09:07 PM
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hi guys

First off i want to say hi to everyone. Im new to this forum but have been on many others mainly for mustangs though. I recently bought a 92 flarside 4x4 for really cheap and having a problem getting it into 4wd. I have worked on the electric shift before on my dads 90 bronco but that was easy compared to this.

So heres the problem when i press the 4x4 button you hear clicking in the right hand kickpanel and you can hear the motor on the tcase working. i was able to get it to go in at least say it was in but when i moved the truck and cranked the wheels it didnt feel like it was caricteristically like iam used to. and when 4 low was pressed you would hear claicking the the 4x4 light goes out. iam not sure what would make it do this. Iam not even sure that it was in when the light came on. any help is better then none so bring on some suggestions.

Thanks

JT
 
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 09:12 PM
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My dad's old 92 F150 4x4 had auto locking hubs in it, and he had them repacked like 4 times in the 10 yrs he owned it. I'm not so familiar with the 4WD systems, but maybe you could start there?
 
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 10:50 PM
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sounds to me like a bad solenoid or 4x4 actuator. Your not supposed to hear them make any noise at all. When i was into lifted 4x4s they were all manually engaged 4x4 t cases. Wouldnt have it any other way.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2008 | 07:04 AM
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i wis hit was manually engaged. I can only hear it when the truck is off. and underneath. could a the speed sensor or one of the other sensors in the system be causing this?
 
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Old Mar 24, 2008 | 10:41 AM
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could be the speed sensor, motor position sensor, or the electric clutch in the transfer case.

Module should have a diagnostic test button on it..if you find it, remove B and C connectors, turn ign on, wait 4 seconds and and push the button. If the LED lights, it passes. If the light comes on and STAYS on for 30 seconds, it fails, if NO light comes on it fails.

You can also check the speed sensor at the module..ign on, put an ohm meter across B2 and B3 (light green and light blue) and you should have 225-275 ohms with the vehicle stopped.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2008 | 10:59 AM
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or the motor itself, obviously.

But after re-reading your original, start at the speed sensor resistance test I mentioned above, then check the transmission interlocks.. (neutral switch, closed in neutral only on an automatic, or if a standard, clutch in switch, closed when pedal depressed) and check for a voltage signal from the 4lo switch at the module on C3 (orange/lightblue) when the switch is activated.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2008 | 11:01 AM
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geez...And welcome to FTE!!!
 
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Old Mar 24, 2008 | 09:28 PM
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thanks i will try and do that tom will let you know how is goes.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2008 | 10:01 PM
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just a thought, maybe it is working right but perhaps the auto locksing hubs are frozen? just a thought, it was -25 Celsius here the other morning might not be cold where you are however.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2008 | 12:36 PM
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its been around 6 to 10 c here lately so dont think the freezing hubs could be happening but who know I will look into that tonight as well.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2008 | 05:08 PM
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well just got out from under the truck. checked the modular blinking 4 times then sutting off. So i started to check the connections on the transfer case i did find that if i i played with the speed sensor i think that is what it is not sure will try to take a pic in a bit that it would go in to 4wd but once taken out wouldnt go in again till you played with it a bit. so iam thinking that i have a bad elec connection in that general area. what all is needed to change the speed sensor. if that is what i was playin with.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2008 | 06:21 PM
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If you can get a picture up, I'll check in when I get home tonight (about 2 1/2 hours) and let you know.
 
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