When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I used NGK V-powers. I checked my fuel pressure and it was good to go. I think I'm going run my tank until its empty and fill up and see if that fixes the problem.
Well, I was going to say "pull all the COPs and make sure they are clean and the boots are nice and dry" as the cheap way to do this.
But before you spend a boatload on a new set of COPs... do me a favor - I'll even BUY the darn plugs and ship them to you!
Try a set of "normal" Motorcraft/Autolite plugs that are the OEM-style for your engine.
Without doing anything, and I mean ANYTHING else, change those plugs back to stock ones and see if the problem goes away.
I'd even reuse the old ones if you can clean them up and regap them ...
Either that, or you have a bad COP.
If it's misfiring that bad, you should be able to read the misfire counters and figure out which cylinder it is.
This sounds exactly like years past with people putting non-Motorcraft plugs in their modulars.
I'm going to bet that you chase the misfire... if you find one cylinder misfiring, change the COP. Wait a month or two. I'll bet another cylinder starts misfiring. Then another, then another.
Try filling at a different station. Maybe bad gas?
bad gas would make it run rough, but all the time- not just after it warms up... unless he's got ice in the line somewhere, and IsoHeet (red bottle) would clear that up in a matter of a few miles...
a bottle of that stuff is about $3 up here, and it'll treat up to 25 gallons I think.
I had the same problem about 4 weeks ago. The V10 wasn't running smooth and silky like it normally does, the "Check Engine" light was off, and I couldn't pull a code with an Actron 9125. Motorcraft plugs have about 4k miles on them.
Updated to a new code reader (Actron CP9190) and even though the "Check Engine" light was still off the new reader pulled a coil mis-fire on cylinder 6. Changed the COP using one from Advance Auto and it's run fine ever since.
I'd lean towards a bad coil.
Lead Dog was right. I ran my tank unitl the light came on plus 15 miles then put a bottle of the HEET in my tank and added 15 gallons of fuel. Everything is back to normal now. I got the bad fuel at Flying J. I appreciate everyone trying to help me out. Thanks
I thought about it, but what evidence do I have. I'm pretty sure that they aren't going to take my word for it.
There must be somekind of "watchdog agency" or testing firm down there that you can call...
Up here there is an environmental testing group that more or less tests the holding tanks and surrounding soil and water for contamination from leakage. Leakage goes both ways....
Or a call to the DEC might tell you when they were tested last, and they might have a complaint form. Or the DEC would tell you who that testing firm was, so you could call them instead of getting the DEC involved.
Just because they got their name splashed all over this post, shouldn't let them off the hook if they have a problem with their gas- if you are 110% sure that you got bad gas from them- you should let someone know.
It is also entirely possible () that they have a problem and don't know it...
Either way, ultimately it's your call... let your conscience be your guide,
I just hope you didn't go back and buy your HEET from them
P.S. just had another thought about that testing firm...
Up here, all our fuel stations are required to have testing done multiple times throughout the year- alot of that has to do with the frost heaving that we have, nonetheless...
If nothing else, you may be able to find out information like who has the CLEANEST gas.
I personally know a guy that heads up one of those firms here in Alaska, so getting info like that from him is easy, but I would think that that would be public info- "all you have to do is ask the question" kind of thing.
good luck with it, and keep us posted...
Glad to hear you got it solved. I always run an oil-based injector cleaner/water emulsifier, rarely fill-up without it. That way I always know I'm not going to freeze up, or worse yet plug the filter with a gooey wad of dirt, water, and whatever it was that looks like a wad a snot. You don't have to buy water to accumulate a quantity of it.
At first I thought you had done what I did a few times. The book for my '06 says to turn on the key and wait for the computer to go through its checks before starting. I usually wait until the dash lights go out after their little check session, then start. It's like 3 seconds, or four chimes of the seatbelt alarm.
\
When I don't it still starts OK and drives off down the road. Then about 15 -25 miles down the road, like when I'm climbing a hill, it's like half the cylinders start misfiring. Sometimes the check engine light comes on.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.