No Start Need Advise
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 221
Likes: 0
From: Middle Gawga
87 F250 No Start Need Advise
Sorry for the long post but it's an electrical issue. This is for an 87 F-250 with 351W. I had an issue where the starter would continue to run after releasing the ingnition switch. I quickly disconnected the battery cable (I always leave them hand tight) crawled under the truck wacked the starter a couple of times (thinking stuck bendix) reconnected the battery and it worked fine. This happened three times over a seven day period. On the forth time it didn't work. Changed the starter it still ran continously after connecting the battery. Changed the solenoid on the fender it worked fine until three days later when the same problem came back. I took the solenoid back the the parts store installed the replacement now the starter doesn't continiously run however, I cannot start the truck using the key inginition switch. I now turn the key to the run position and use a screwdriver to jump start using the solenoid. Should my next step begin at the electrical connector at the lower portion of the steering colume?
New User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: Juneau, ak
I have had to replace a few starters in various engines. On my 92' 351, I had replaced one in the drive way. Being pressed for time due to dinner reservations, I didn't get the leads to the switch properly connected. This did the same thing that you are discribing. The starter constantly ran. If I were you before you spend any more money on parts, I would trace out the wires that go to you ignition switch from the starter all the way to the switch. If there is any chaffing or corroding in the wires it can act funny. I am a machanic for small boats, and you would be suprised at what can happen with wiring. But like I said I would trace the wiring. Hope this helps.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 221
Likes: 0
From: Middle Gawga
Lefty64- Are you refering to the key ingintion switch or the switch at the lower portion of the colume? My parts store lists the lower one as the "switch". Does the key switch (on an 87 model) send an electrical signal via wires or mechnical via push/pull rod to the lower switch/electrical connector at the lower portion of the colume?
Elder User
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 754
Likes: 1
From: Solon, Ohio
Lets not overlook the obvious.........PARTS STORE DID THE REPLACEMENT...........NOW TRUCK WON'T CRANK WITH KEY , have to jump fender relay.
Did they leave off the wiring from the fender relay to the ignition switch (switch at bottom of column) ??
Your original problem may have been the ignition switch (bottom of column) or the "Ignition Tumbler" (where you stick the key), or the linkage or rod that runs from the tumbler down to the switch.
Did they leave off the wiring from the fender relay to the ignition switch (switch at bottom of column) ??
Your original problem may have been the ignition switch (bottom of column) or the "Ignition Tumbler" (where you stick the key), or the linkage or rod that runs from the tumbler down to the switch.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 8,402
Likes: 10
The ign./start switch is on top of the steering column under the instrument cluster. There is no electrical connection between it and the key switch. You should pull the wire off the relay on the fender, get a helper to turn the key switch to the start position and you should have 12 volts at the wire or if using a test light it should light. Get the helper to return the key to the "run" position, volts should drop to zero or test light should go out. If power is at relay even with key switch at "run" or "off" then I would replace the ign./start switch under the dash. There is quite a strong spring in that switch that returns it to the "run" position so, although not impossible, it is unlikely to be the linkage between the key switch and the ign./start switch. You can check this out by working the key switch while feeling the rod moving at the ign./start switch. The rod should move exactly "in time" with the key.
New User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Lower portion switch, the key switch is a push /pull type operation. Replacement for this part is not bad.
Trending Topics
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 273
Likes: 0
i dont know what it might be, but I do know its a fact that the '88s had a recall on the ignition switches, I still have the paperwork from that from ford. mabey some of those 87's bled into that problem.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 313
Likes: 0
From: florida
hey i had this problem on a few 80s models and ti was the rod in the colum that actuaits the switch at the base good test for this and it wont cost any thing but time it to pull that lower switch and see if it will start from there 9 times out of ten thats the problem on those trucks and it starts out just like your problem did i hope this will help you the rod gets lose over the years