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Need best brake system for front

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Old Mar 19, 2008 | 11:17 AM
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Need best brake system for front

Well I have 79 f150 with 4wd. It have 31" tires with 4 inches lift kit.

Brake on those is still have plenty life brake pad have almost 1/2" but it was cheap brake pad eat rotor it cause glaze so when I drive fast and want stop fast it get longer to stop.

Last week I was pull trailer that is full of 5 snowmobiles when I try stop it was not stop enough it still moving across white lane.

Now I am look for heavy duty brake rotor and pad so I want good stop instead slip like you need push brake pedal more hard it then sudden it lock and truck stop moving like your stuff on bed crash to cab.

I am look at those it good rotor? http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

or this brake pad? http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
 
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Old Mar 19, 2008 | 01:10 PM
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NAPA sells a line of calipers and pads call "United". If they still have them. Drilled and slotted rotors powder coated calipers with stainless pistons. They work really well for me.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2008 | 01:57 PM
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I'm going to the smaller but more efficient F350 Dual diaphragm booster.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2008 | 02:06 PM
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[QUOTE=Milwaukee1979F150]Well I have 79 f150 with 4wd. It have 31" tires with 4 inches lift kit.

Brake on those is still have plenty life brake pad have almost 1/2" but it was cheap brake pad eat rotor it cause glaze so when I drive fast and want stop fast it get longer to stop.

Last week I was pull trailer that is full of 5 snowmobiles when I try stop it was not stop enough it still moving across white lane.

Now I am look for heavy duty brake rotor and pad so I want good stop instead slip like you need push brake pedal more hard it then sudden it lock and truck stop moving like your stuff on bed crash to cab.

I am look at those it good rotor? http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=BEN-141214&N=700+4294922533+4294908331+4294925054+4294 908312+4294840102+4294907043+115&autoview=sku

or this brake pad? http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=EBC-DP71261&N=700+4294922533+4294908331+4294925054+429 4908312+4294840102+4294907043+4294859529+115&autov iew=sku[/QUOTE]

Want more stopping power? Simple answer Bigger brakes. definitly a must if you add more HP and/or Bigger wheel/tires (rotation mass).
 
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Old Mar 19, 2008 | 08:03 PM
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there is an article(in the "article/specs" section) that has an upgrade for a bronco, but it is the same for a f150...lincoln calipers, drilled and slotted rotors and smaller, more efficient booster as mentioned above....
 
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Old Mar 20, 2008 | 07:18 PM
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Well what happened when we bought this in Summer. Owner told us it have new brake pad on it.

Well what happened He use very cheap brake pad that won't worn out plus rotor is glaze so it hard to stop when it wet. We put 7,000 miles and brake pad still have enough but it look bad than new brake pad. P.S. it put lot black dust on front rim left tire because brake capilar on left is work so it work hardest than right brake.

We end get to auto shop in School. Teacher check and surprise brake pad still have plenty life so he told me get off brake pad I say ok then remove it. He look at brake pad and say it piece of junk.

And it drag right tire to slow because brake pad.

Now what we will do is replace right brake capilar, brake pads, rotors, and new left brake hose to capilar.

That will cost me close 150 to 250 dollars.


What I am look for best brake pad not cheap for 20 dollars. Is this good or junk? http://www.autozone.com/R,APP1133418...ductDetail.htm
 
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Old Mar 20, 2008 | 08:12 PM
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I usually buy pads by the warranty. If there is a lifetime warranty just keep the old pads and the I think the box and they will exchange them for you. I think the Duralast Gold are the top of the line for Autozone.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2008 | 09:59 PM
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well if you have want to gain some experience and perform quality classroom projects, instead of buying the caliper new, just buy the rebuild kit which is inexpensive and real simple to rebuild....and do a rebuild in the class.
then just take the rotors to a shop to be turned, provided they are not too warn or warped(but the tech will tell you) $10 per rotor to be turned and then the last thing is the pads and hose. it should be under $75 for everything....btw both the duralast gold and valucraft have "morse" stamped on them.....i have never had any probs with the valucraft brakes....the gold series gets a paint job and "anti-rattle" shim attached....but similar compounds in both....just dont get ceramic brakes-they are terrible for braking.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2008 | 11:32 PM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by 79f150toy
just dont get ceramic brakes-they are terrible for braking.
Actually just a correction on that last statement isn't quite true. Ceramic brake pads are great perfomance pads, when and only when they are used in conjunction with ceramic coated or ceramic rotors. That is why they are used on race cars and Hi performance exotics.

I would rather state that ceramic pads are terrible on steel rotors as they will eat the standard rotor alive.

The easiest way to get better stopping power is to increase the braking surface area. If for some reason people think different I just leave you with this idea. Think about what size rotor and brake pads do you have on your rig? My little 1991 VW Corrado runs 11" rotors (Stock) on the front. Now that is just a 2600 lbs car, but the fact that I can and have brought it up to 140MPH, you find out that at those speeds braking power and control is a must.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2008 | 05:14 AM
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Well honest those owner who replace brake capilar it was so cheap but old. I notice when push brake pedal it stick will not open it just hold brake all times.


Those brake pad look like cermanic or abreseote.


I will talk to my Teacher what best brake pad and rotor then we will fix it. I hope it stop best than when we got this.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2008 | 11:07 AM
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Semi-Metallic.

The soft asbestos shoes though quieter.. will wear out twice as fast
 
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