Need best brake system for front
Brake on those is still have plenty life brake pad have almost 1/2" but it was cheap brake pad eat rotor it cause glaze so when I drive fast and want stop fast it get longer to stop.
Last week I was pull trailer that is full of 5 snowmobiles when I try stop it was not stop enough it still moving across white lane.
Now I am look for heavy duty brake rotor and pad so I want good stop instead slip like you need push brake pedal more hard it then sudden it lock and truck stop moving like your stuff on bed crash to cab.
I am look at those it good rotor? http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
or this brake pad? http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
Brake on those is still have plenty life brake pad have almost 1/2" but it was cheap brake pad eat rotor it cause glaze so when I drive fast and want stop fast it get longer to stop.
Last week I was pull trailer that is full of 5 snowmobiles when I try stop it was not stop enough it still moving across white lane.
Now I am look for heavy duty brake rotor and pad so I want good stop instead slip like you need push brake pedal more hard it then sudden it lock and truck stop moving like your stuff on bed crash to cab.
I am look at those it good rotor? http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=BEN-141214&N=700+4294922533+4294908331+4294925054+4294 908312+4294840102+4294907043+115&autoview=sku
or this brake pad? http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=EBC-DP71261&N=700+4294922533+4294908331+4294925054+429 4908312+4294840102+4294907043+4294859529+115&autov iew=sku[/QUOTE]
Want more stopping power? Simple answer Bigger brakes. definitly a must if you add more HP and/or Bigger wheel/tires (rotation mass).
Well what happened He use very cheap brake pad that won't worn out plus rotor is glaze so it hard to stop when it wet. We put 7,000 miles and brake pad still have enough but it look bad than new brake pad. P.S. it put lot black dust on front rim left tire because brake capilar on left is work so it work hardest than right brake.
We end get to auto shop in School. Teacher check and surprise brake pad still have plenty life so he told me get off brake pad I say ok then remove it. He look at brake pad and say it piece of junk.
And it drag right tire to slow because brake pad.
Now what we will do is replace right brake capilar, brake pads, rotors, and new left brake hose to capilar.
That will cost me close 150 to 250 dollars.
What I am look for best brake pad not cheap for 20 dollars. Is this good or junk? http://www.autozone.com/R,APP1133418...ductDetail.htm
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then just take the rotors to a shop to be turned, provided they are not too warn or warped(but the tech will tell you) $10 per rotor to be turned and then the last thing is the pads and hose. it should be under $75 for everything....btw both the duralast gold and valucraft have "morse" stamped on them.....i have never had any probs with the valucraft brakes....the gold series gets a paint job and "anti-rattle" shim attached....but similar compounds in both....just dont get ceramic brakes-they are terrible for braking.
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I would rather state that ceramic pads are terrible on steel rotors as they will eat the standard rotor alive.
The easiest way to get better stopping power is to increase the braking surface area. If for some reason people think different I just leave you with this idea. Think about what size rotor and brake pads do you have on your rig? My little 1991 VW Corrado runs 11" rotors (Stock) on the front. Now that is just a 2600 lbs car, but the fact that I can and have brought it up to 140MPH, you find out that at those speeds braking power and control is a must.
Those brake pad look like cermanic or abreseote.
I will talk to my Teacher what best brake pad and rotor then we will fix it. I hope it stop best than when we got this.




